Kathmandu...wow!!!

Kathmandu is probably as opposite as can be from Pokhara. The sky is rarely blue, more locals than foreigners, English is not the first language spoken around, the majority of buildings are not guesthouses, and most importantly, Katmandu has a ton of culture and history to offer, and just as many old crooked streets and temples to get lost amongst. Though this comparison is entirely true when comparing Lake Side area of Pokhara to Thamel/Durbar Square area of Kathmandu, it remains true for the rest of the city when it comes to the history, crooked streets and temples part.

When I first arrived in Nepal, I had stayed in Thamel. Mainly because that's what I had been suggested by all other travelers in had met as well as the guidebooks. But when this time I decided to check out Freak Street/Durbar Square area, I was in awe and amazement so much I couldn't believe how incredibly vibrant and filled with culture and all the things I am constantly looking for when I traveled. I could spend weeks just sitting in the main square, watching people going about their day, morning, day and night. There is so much colorful and cultural activity going on to not let the eyes rest a second. A pure spectacle going on 24/7. And all the little intricate crooked streets all over the place remind me so much of morocco, with its very low old carved stone doorways giving access to beautiful ancient hidden courtyards. The square itself is filled with massive monuments and temples, all displaying the absolute most amazing and detailed woodwork I have ever seen in my life. The middle eastern woodwork is like a plain gross draft work compared to that of Durbar Square. (And that of Baktapur is at an even higher level.)

Anyway, the afternoon I arrived in town, checked in a small yet super comfortable room I a guest house where both Colin & Nathalie, and Enrico were, I was just filled with a feeling of contempt and happiness about being there. I had finally reverted back onto the path of traveling. Yes, I do love cities. I do love how vibrant with culture they can be. I do love how in some ways, all people are treated more equally. There are just so many people that unless you look very carefully, differences do not strike you as much. Cities are really places where everyone has a chance or the opportunity to change their life and take it to another level. I don't mean by this that I think cities are better than villages. Not at all. I am just saying that by the incredible diversity of activities going on, I find cities more interesting to observe. It is almost perhaps easier to blend in and be part of a city's action as a foreigner than it would be in a village.

Anyhow, yes I was happy and that is all that matters. Hehe!

On April 14th was the Nepali new year. Though it didn't seem that Nepali people would make a big deal out of it, we had heard that in Baktapur (most ancient medieval town in Nepal only 14km away) there would also be a very interesting "Bisket" festival going on.

Baktapur is indeed such a impressive medieval town filled with the most impressive temples, palaces, wood and stone works, and a incredible infrastructure very similar to Medina's in the Arab world. However, the downside of it is that it does come across as a giant museum for tourists, local tourists and foreigners alike. In my personal opinion, villages like Bhachok or Bhujung are just as ancient and medieval, but way more authentically maintained as places where people still live according to the old way of life (plus then introduction of smart phones and mp3 players of course!).

The entrance to the town costs $us 15. We managed to sneak in and dodge all the check posts. Good thing, because I don't know of I would be willing to pay such amount (relative to the local cost of living) to visit the town. In many ways, the Durbar square area is just as interesting. I must mention though that Baktapur is also famous for it buffalo curd/yogurt. And well, rightfully so. Such a yummy yogurt served in a small clay pot. Between Baktapur and Kathmandu I definitely honored this curd.

When I arrived in Kathmandu, I still had 2 weeks to be in Nepal, hoping to visit a couple of NGOs recommended by Beverly, and do some more site seeing. But as I was chatting with Angelina about Iran and Africa, I felt the urge to get there sooner rather than later, especially when I realized that I had already been in Asia for 13 months. So in one hour's time, to changed my plane ticket from Kathmandu to Dubai, and rebooked it for the next day. Very much spontaneous, but I guess that's how we Pisces are. I am sure Sylvette will fully agree with that statement. Jajaja

Anyhow, so now I just had one night left not only in Nepal, but in Asia. No better way to spend it than to have diner with Colin, Nathalie, and Enrico. And we also randomly bumped into Walter, the Dutch retired engineers from the vipassana course who happens to live a block away from our guest house. A great evening overall, but I don't think that I fully realize that I was going to leave Asia (most probably for a very long time) the very next day. As I am in the plane en route to Dubai now, I am still not fully realizing this. I will need a bit more time also to reflect on my past 13 months.

So yes, Kathmandu was and is a spectacular place, and I could have spent many more days there, roaming around the streets for photo opportunities and cultural interactions. And the best part of it is to get in the streets at 5am, and go to Durbar square, buy a tea, and go drink it atop the tallest temple while watching all the locals start their day. Flower and offering sellers unroll their beautifully colorful merchandize on the floor, people perform their first prayers and offerings of the day. Many different practices of all sorts based on which temples and which god is being praised. Pigeon square is filled with tons of pigeons waiting for generous people to buy a basket of corn and feed them. A couple of cows roam around hoping to get some left over and seal photo ops from the pigeons. Vegetable sellers (women for the most part) are very delicately geometrically arranging their produce on the floor. Flash light sellers are doing the same. (This morning I actually wondered if flash light sellers sell more during the day or during the night?) Fruit sellers (men for the most part, and only on bikes) are pushing their overloaded bikes around scouting for the busiest places to park. Tiny bakeries are selling mouth their fresh production of the day (I miss them already). Curd vendors are sending their fresh filled clay pots delivery boys though the city. And so on...so many different beautiful things going on and to observe happen and evolve throughout the day as people go in and out of work, goods get consumed, and the sun goes around...I love it!

But by all means people, do not, I repeat, do not staying the Thamel area. Stay around the Durbar square area, and trust me, you will not regret it, it has nothing to do with what the guidebooks say about it.

Ghalel, to Lwang, to Pokhara...

Spending time in the Lwang Ghalel valley towards the end of my trip in Nepal was probably the best decision I took as it did in some ways reconcile me with the Nepali culture. But mainly because o was brought to the village by one of the villager and thus everyone treated me as a real guest rather than a simple foreign tourist. But what an experience!

Everywhere we would walk with Ram, everyone would pay him the highest respect. Like a super star walking around town. I was happy and proud to be his friend and to wander the streets with him, but I kept on wondering whether such respect was due to his family name or if it was because of the work he has done for the locals. He is my age and does not have a job, but he spends a lot of time and effort trying to lobby for the development of his village as well as link up with foreigners for volunteers and donations. Perhaps a combination of things I suppose...

Ram and I shared a room on the main floor. Amazing view of the whole valley. Good thing I always keep a few pairs of ear plugs in my bag since I started this trip. Ram snores like a bear! (Well, I am assuming that's how a bear snores) Incredibly loud. Lol was funny...especially in the mornings when I was meditating while he was still sleeping. Ufff...

Sharing a room with someone is always a challenge if the other one snores at night. Thus far I hate always been lucky. But my luck ended in Ghalel. Hahaha! No big deal though, I was so tired anyway I still managed to sleep through it fine.

Something I learnt about the Nepali village culture, or rather the Gurung culture is that they only have two meals per day. Their lunch at 9am and diner at 7pm. Sometimes a little snack around noon. But that explains why during the two meals they all without exception (old tiny women as well) eat like ogres who haven't eaten in days. A spectacle to observe the flexibility of the capacity limits of the human intestine and stomach. It has never ceased to amaze me so far.

Consequently, given my dramatically different eating habits, the portions I would eat at each meal were less than half of theirs and that amazed them each and every time. Giacomo, if you still eat the same way as the AU days, you would blend in without a problem. Lol

The second day, we went up to the neighboring village of Kalimati. A beautiful even tinier village. There we met up with Shiva, the youth representative of the village. 22 year old good looking and charismatic guy. He owns a gorgeous piece of land perched on top of a hill with a 360 degree view and wants to build a guest house there. So I spent an hour advising him on architecture, orientation, activities, events, strategy, and marketing to build, launch and manage his project. Such an amazing potential. I really hope he buys a good telescope and runs some weekly star gazing nights. Best place ever for that. And hopefully he can be the one introducing the culture of kites in Nepal. Strangely enough, the kite culture is well implanted in all the surrounding countries, but hasn't caught on quite yet in Nepal.

That same day, the primary school of Kalimati was doing its year-end graduation (all schools in the valley as well given that April 14th is their new year and that the new school year starts in the 16th). And so, though we didn't know, the whole school committee, parents and kids were waiting for us for hours to take part in the event and be the two guests of honor. We were both dressed like trekkers covered in dust from the biking. But they begged us to join them, so we did. As I sat down on the chair, facing all the 15 kids and their parents (farmers for the most part) I really felt something strong in my belly. How such simple, poor, modest people can so genuinely open their arms to a total stranger like me and praise me as I had given them the moon. It always surprises me so much to see how the poorest are the ones who give the most, and the ones with the biggest hearts.

No mater what kind of material or immaterial thing the "rich" can give you, it will never be as heart warming and moving as the genuine hugs and smiles of the "poor". I am only mentioning the two extremes here merely to make a point.

And so we spent a good two hours, most of which listening to speeches from different men (no woman was actually invited to make a speech) I even gave one myself, and then they asked me to help hand  out directly to the kids their graduation gifts while someone else would bless them by putting a red powder dot on their forehead. It was such a small, isolated, and would be such a meaningless event for most people in the west given the very young age of the kids, yet these villagers made such a big ceremony out of it, filled with smiles, joy, blessings, and even colors. That little "thing" gave me so much warmth and moved me quite much. It was definitely a privilege for me to be there yet the villagers definitely did all they could to show me that my presence among them was rather a privilege for them. How fantastic can human beings be when we expect it the least. I did all I could to not make any wrong move or disrespect any of their culture. I was so happy when one of the village heads came to be as I bed farewell and told me "Thank you for being so polite and respectful, p!ease come again."

The next day we were supposed to attend the same kind of event but for the rather larger school of Ghalel. However, Ram suggested I go to Lwang instead to witness some of the new year's eve celebrations instead. So the next day, after a super light breakfast, off we went, and Ram dropped me off on the junction, for me to the catch a jeep up to Lwang. Yes! More adventurous rides. And gosh! What a bumpy ride!

Thank you so much Ram, great suggestion! Lwang is such a gorgeous village with incredibly welcoming and happy people. Lwang is probably twice the size of Ghalel. Only 3 more homestays than Ghalel, but this village is famous for its wide spread organic tea gardens. And yes, Lwang is also very much keen on volleyball.

There in was supposed to be greeted by Santosh, Ram's equivalent in Lwang. I then got put into the nicest home stay and definitely the most beautiful and comfortable room I have had in Nepal. Gorgeous views of the whole valley right above my feet as I lay down in bed. Uffff!!!

Santosh mom and sister were such great hostesses, with so much humor and smiles. At night there was supposed to be an opening dance event for the new years Celebration. They took me there. It was so fun. All the villagers sitting on mini stools or on the floor itself, in this cement sort of warehouse, waiting for the show to start, while Santosh and his crew were still finishing up the AV set up.

Four visitors from Austria were in town, both involved in the tea business with Lwang. So they were the guests of honor on the stage, and multiple speeches were given in their honor. It was funny to observe how little villagers actually cared about them and how they were just interested and awake when the Austrians started giving candies and gifts away to all the kids. But the whole thing actually delayed the performance by two hours, which was quite late then.

Anyhow, finally the performance started. Not quite what I expected, but the kids, of all ages, danced with such ease, and joy on their faces, it was a pure delight to watch. If only the Tibetan/Nepali songs were much shorter and not so repetitive though...

The next day I was back in Pokhara, for a last night in town. At last...

I just realized why I have felt the need to get away from Pokhara as soon as possible.

Don't get me wrong, this city is fantastic in many ways, and the views from the roof tops at dawn and sunset are precious. The most yummy western food at affordable prices all over town. Beautiful lake side. Nice people. Nice weather...but that's the "problem". The more time spent here the less I feel abroad. Everything is to easy. In many ways it almost feels like being back in north america. To easy, and wayyyyyy to many foreigners. It has become much of a foreigners culture rather than a Nepali culture. In some ways, a bit like Kao San Re in BKK.

I need to really be on the road again. Struggle to find a place to eat for 1 US dollar. Struggle to get from A to B. Not see a foreign face for days. Be in the process of adaptation. Feel the thrill to be facing something totally new everyday yet delightful to discover and adapt at the same time.

Strangely enough, that last evening in town, there was a serious rain storm. Turning the city quite repulsive and dirty. Rain, mud, fog, and cooling temperatures...definitely the right time to leave that place...

Bye bye Pokhara, not sure when or if I will see you again. But Ram, thank you from the bottom of my heart for making my last week in the region like a dream. You have a big heart, don't change!

Back to Pokhara...off to Ghalel.

Getting back to Pokhara after three weeks of trekking at high altitudes and without regular showers was such a treat. In some ways it almost felt like going back home. I already had my landmarks and small habits in the town.

So as soon as I dropped my bags off at Anne's guest house, I went on a food hunt. I was sooooo looking forward to affordable and varied western foods a again. Roasted chicken, fresh fruit juices, loaves of brow bred...

And as I was walking around I bumped into Jerome from the vipassana course. Really good to see him. So we met up for diner to catch up a bit on the town's gossips. And as we were almost done, I see Colin coming from the back room. Amazing! Colin and Nathalie had just returned from their trek like an hour before. So we had dessert all together. It was so fantastic to be all reunited again!

The reason why I cut my trekking short, other than being tired of it, was because I had committed to going to Ghalel, small village where Angelina went last year, to also volunteer my help any way they need.

It so happened that this weekend Ghalel was competing in a District volleyball tournament in Pokhara...and yesterday, April 7th, they actually qualified for the finals for the first time ever. Very big deal for them.

Ram, who helped Angelina last year in the discovery of Ghalel picked me up to go watch the game and then we would take off and go straight to Ghalel. Little did we know that the game would be stopped half way through by an apocalyptic hale storm. Incredible. The whole thing arrived over the volleyball court like a black space ship out of nowhere. The air got suddenly very hot, and then, in a spilt second, ice marbles were raining from the sky. The temperature dropped so low so fast!

As soon as the storm started, everyone got up and ran for refuge. It was comical to watch actually, as the first things that would fly up with the wind were all the detritus and plastic that everyone had been throwing on the floor since the beginning of the tournament. It initially really upset me a lot to see everyone littering the place like crazy, but seeing the storm taking its revenge was fun. I was told to run and follow "the monk". Which I did. Soon we were 8 people cramped up in the tiny car of the monk, waiting for the rain and hale to stop. It was kind of scary to see how the storm just kept on intensifying.

After a good hour or so, it all stopped the same way it had started. The space ship just disappeared and left place to a magnificent sunset...only hick up was that the volleyball court was now a giant pond. Thus the game got postponed to the next day, this morning. 

And gosh, what a game it was! These kids (some of them are actually rather adults or about my age) play like pros! It really was a beautiful final game. And Ghalel even won!!! They were so happy they also decorated me with the budhist scarf and put some red powder on my forehead. Almost each player then wanted to take a photo with me and the trophy. Was nice and funny.

Such a fantastic day. Bright sun. Blue sky. A large crowd had made its way down the 2 hour drive from the village to watch the final game. So they all took part to the celebration. 4 motorcycles and a whole bus. The whole way back up from Pokhara to Ghalel was nothing but constant honking and victory screams. Such a joyful and happy bunch all thrilled to heaven to have won this tournament.

And well, lucky me, I was sitting on the motorcycle of Ram the whole way. Wow! What a ride! The whole time I was thinking that doing the Annapurna circuit had been such a mistake. The Mardi Himal trek (where Ghalel is situated), of which i got to see a part, is just a full blown spectacle of beauty and awesome scenery. No foreigners. Only locals who are actually smiling, and traditional little villages here and there. Magnificent all the way. And riding literally in the river for quite a while, with water almost knee high, was really fun and cool. Can't believe that 5 minutes before we started riding in the river I was actually thinking to myself that for safety reasons I should have worn sneakers rather than fliflops. I was so happy to not have done so as soon as we got into the water with the bike.

And so we were four motorcycles "escorting" the fully loaded bus, both inside and on the roof, of fans who were singing, dancing, and drinking all along. The three motos and us always made sure to make the detour at every little village or group of houses to scream our victory chants and let the people know that Ghalel was the champion.

I have to admit though that I was way overwhelmed by the beauty and fun of the ride and thus didn't really pay much attention to the celebration itself.

And we kept on going, river stream after river stream, ravished dirt path after dirt path. Once again I had to put my "life" on the hands of fate. Worrying about a potential fall, slip, or crash would not have solved any issue. So I just enjoyed the ride.

We finally arrived at Lumre, a very small yet gorgeous and Western movie like. All the commotion of the celebration definitely attracted all the villagers...and Gosh there were a lot of kids. The moment would have been photo portrait heaven had I been disrespectful and started to hunt everyone for a portrait. I did bite my lips many times from the frustration of missing out on so many amazing potential shots. Oh well...those shots are engraved in my memory any way. That's all that matters now.

After a tea, some snack, and a slightly yet funny interaction with some drunk kid who wanted to be my friend, we headed further up, on the way to Ghalel. Ram really wanted to show me his new venture that will hopefully bring not only income for him but also for the rest of the village: the canyoning site, a 200m tall beautiful waterfall hidden in the middle of the jungle, and ending in a small natural pool. The potential of this site is huge, between canyoning, zip lining, rock climbing, swimming...

That is very much why Ram brought me to Ghalel, to help him boost the village's attractiveness to tourism. So many ideas came to me as we were making our way to the village. Such fantastic location and pool of culture.

Anyhow, we made it to Ghalel right during sunset...just before the light went off (electricity here is rationed and only provided to the village certain hours per night).

The village is so charmingly beautiful. 80 houses spread out in the mountain, all dominating the more or less central volleyball court downhill. Terrace agriculture all around. Bamboos, fruit trees, and animals all over. And the village is positioned in such a way that for the most part it is directly facing and overlooking the entire valley and river. Spectacular view!

In order to spread out the business fairly among the 8 homestays, tourists are always referred or put to a place that hasn't had business in a while. My luck, I got the one with the best view. It so happened that an Israeli couple was also staying in for the night. So after exchanging trekking tips and experiences, we ate some delicious dalbat inside the kitchen. Such great time. We even got to learn about special dish that the locals eat here, basically made out of a millet flour turned into a thick paste. You roll it into a small ball in your hand, dip it in dal, and are supposed to swallow it directly, without giving it a chew. Sorry but my brain refused to process the new info and each and every time made me chew first. Oh well, it still was very tasty.

We all laughed so much during each of my attempts and while I was jaw dropped observing the ease with which the hostess was just popping much bigger millet balls back to back without ever chewing at all.

Maybe I will try again tomorrow...sleepy time now.

Namaste.