Day 18: May 27th, from Carrion las Condes to Bercianos del real Camino, 26.4km
Today was a great day. My leg did much better and I was able to walk at my usual fast speed.
The trail hasn't been nice at all these past few days. But we had been warned about it. Until Leon, the trail is supposed to be ugly.
We however managed to have a delicious and long casse croute. By a little fountain in the middle of town facing the monument of te Center of the Camino, in front of a huge church. Beautiful sun and loads of peregrinos passing us by.
What a relief to finally arrive at Bercianos, where Juan from Zabaldika had advised us to stay as it is supposed to have a fantastic Albergue Parroquial. And he couldn't have been any more right. The building is beautiful. Old red bricks. A large back patio in the sun facing hill farms. And the two brother hospitaleros are a total show of kindness and smiles.
After shower and laundry we settled down in the patio and had our lunch casse croute. Baguette with pork pate with armaniac accompanied by a tinto de verano. Delicious.
The evening was nothing more but fun. The brothers cooked a gigantic paella for all of us. And we sang all sorts of songs in every single languages represented in the albergue tonight. 13 different countries.
We even sang a Camino version of La Bamba. Hilarious!!!
So much fun to put us in the best of moods to go to sleep smoothly...
Day 19: May 28th, from Bercianos to Mansilla de las Mulas. 25km.
Last night I didn't sleep at all, yet again. My allergies have been killing me for days now. Forget about my tendinitis. I have been in total apnea at night, nose out of order. I am exhausted from such lack of sleep. But I don't want to complain. Especially to Angelina. Poor her, she already has to bare so much. Honestly, after seeing the broken leg and sniffly red swollen nose gregory, if she still likes what she sees, then she will have seen the worst, and I am safe, she will love me for ever. Lol. She jokingly said yesterday afternoon though: "no era asim cuando eu comprei." (It wasn't like that when I bought).
This Camino together is such a perfect way for us to get to fully know each other, the good and the bad sides. Though we got to see a lot of that also in India and Bangladesh, hehe...God knows we both got quite sick a few times...different kinds of bugs there. Lol
Anyhow...today, another good day. I picked up speed, and without pain on my leg. Though I did and do feel a lot of pain every time I stop. Oh well...work in progress I suppose.
This morning was freezing. At least we had a great big breakfast to get us started. No other casse croute break until day final destination: Mansillas. And gosh, between the rain, the cold, and the paved road, it was definitely not about the beauty of the landscapes that we were walking. Angelina and I seem to be more and more comfortable with walking at our own paces. Usually a good km between her and I.
But now, we pretty much know everyone on the road as we are following and followed by the same 50 or so peregrinos. So it is like in Nepal in a way. The same big wave of trekkers flowing from one town to the next every day, which makes it all the more fun when we get to the albergues. All seating around the table and sharing more and more stories and food. The Mexican, the Portuguese's, the Dutch, the Danish, the Germans, the Italian, the Koreans (strangely enough, tonight, no Koreans in our albergue, a first)...
My allergies are still killing me. My eyes are now continuously shedding tears, and my nose is still out of service. Booh! Bad!
When checking in the albergue municipal, I was so happy to see Jim and the Australians again.
While I am chatting with a Mexican, an Italian, a Norwegian, two Portuguese's and two Brazilian, Angelina went for a walk around town, taking advantage of the few rays of sun between two downpours of rain.
Being Angelina, she befriended a French/Spanish vagabond outside the supermarket, he pretends to be a peregrino as well, perhaps he is perhaps he is not. Our hospitalera later told us that this guy named Sebastien is actually a thief who already got caught stealing from a few shops and kicked out of a couple of bars. Who knows who says the truth. Angelina's intuition usually doesn't lie. Anyhow...she hung out with him sitting on the sidewalk and listening to his life story as well as his guitar playing for a few hours. She felt inspired and moved and gave him quite a bit of money. Her heart is big. She can't resist helping people in need, and people with big hearts. I can't blame her. We tried to see of he could get a bed at our albergue. Even paying for it but our hospitalera wouldn't let us for what she told us about him. We felt bad as all he wanted was to finally get a warm shower and a bed to sleep, just for one night. Pity we were not able to help more.
After dinner we did go to the church to check it out and attended the evening mass. To our surprise it was given by two other peregrinos we knew, a Spanish and a Mexican living in NYC.
It's funny. Angelina feels that she isn't appreciating enough all the experiences and adventures she has gone through, and that to some degrees she should have a much higher level of awareness and appreciation for each of these adventures. She almost feels like a lack of gratitude to herself. What she is not realizing though is that it is the accumulation of all these amazing adventures that is allowing her to spread kindness and share her heart with so many people around her. It is almost surreal to watch how people around her are touched by her grace and kindness as if she were an angel, like in the movies. But I don't think she realizes it just yet.
Anyhow, it keeps on surprising me how each peregrino is evolving and changing as the Camino goes on. I for one am learning that the first impression is definitely not necessarily representative of who a person is. And God knows how many judgments and false ideas we usually make about people based on first impressions. What a pity.
Tomorrow's destination is Leon...let's see what awaits us 18km from here.
Buenas noches.
Day 20: May 29th, from Mansilla las Mulas to Leon, 18km.
Very short day. Started off with very cold rain, and pretty much lasted until the night with rain easing into drizzle.
We were both very surprised as we had been told by many peregrinos as well as forums that the way into Leon was terribly ugly and industrial. We actually found it OK, and almost pleasant. Especially compared to the way into Burgos, or the way through Zumbiri.
The walk itself was good. No pain at all...but major swelling on the upper tibia. Ufff scary...but like I said, no pain. So OK.
Getting into the old part of Leon was quite nice. The big brick citadelle is still standing, the stone paved streets all over, the sort of old houses with different architectural influences, the little plazas, churches...
We found our Benedictine convent and checked in. What a factory. 150 beds. Felt like a lot more. Good side though was that we knew so many people there, it felt like we knew everyone. Luckily we got a bunk bed in the couples section, otherwise men and women are separated. It was good to be among friends.
We walked around a lot to find a place to eat. We kind of expected we would find similar places as in Burgos. Not at all.
I must say that Leon does not at all stand up to its reputation. Even its cathedral. I can't believe they dare charging peregrinos 5 euros to get in. Pure robbery!
We found a little bar, ate some tapas and pinchos, drank our beers and left. Off to take a good nap. The walk into the rain and the cold got us exhausted.
Then we walked again to find a place to snack some sort of diner. Nowhere...so we went back to our Albergue and ate whatever we had left in our bags. Leon, am no fan of your bars and foods.
We knew that tow peregrino Fathers were giving a mass at the cathedral so we attended it, and then ran back to our albergue where the nuns were also giving a mass. I know...we attended two masses back to back...only because of the Camino, I swear!
The traditional peregrino blessing was then later on given by the nuns...very interesting and different from the previous ones we attended...and perhaps more boring as well. But the nuns had beautiful voices at least.
Day 21: May 30th, from Leon to Hospital del Orbigo. 37km!!!
I would never have guessed I could have walked that much so soon...and the best part is that I felt like walking 5 more km, but it wouldn't have been reasonable. We walked 15km more than we had planned already.
Walking out of Leon this morning was beautiful. The light hitting the old city's walls and streets was stunning. And since as usual so far the cities and town barely have any people living in them, we (peregrinos) had the city all to ourselves.
And again, like it was the case for the walk into Leon, the walk out of Leon was in no way as bad as people had told us. I can't believe that some peregrinos actually took the bus to go through the first 5km. Shame!
The weather today was spectacular. Once out of Leon it was so delightful to have splendid colorful and nature landscapes again. It had been a few days since we had enjoyed such delights. Now we are back on the nice trails again and that just makes the day and the km go by so fast and so painlessly.
On our way this morning we met a vendor cart who was offering a lot of delicious stuff, foods, nuts, fruits...on a donativo basis. Such generosity for nothing in return, just for the act of helping others and being part of such important journey for so many people. The best part of it though, and don't laugh, was that this guy had the best stamp we have had seen so far. A big bright yellow arrow. Ha! Only peregrinos can understand how great of a stamp that one is. ;-)
If we keep up a good pace we might actually be able to make it to Finisterre by foot, that would be formidable!
I don't believe that many people from Leon last night made it so far today. So we pretty much are a good 15km ahead of the main group with which we have been walking for the past week, which is actually the down side of the situation as it means that we might not see them again for a while or at all. Let's see...
The albergue we found for tonight is really cute and dates back from the 16th century. It is one of the oldest parroquial albergues of the Camino. The town itself is even quite cute with a beautiful long old bridge overlooking a field where medieval knights horse challenges used to happen and most probably still happen. Having the opportunity to see some reenactment of such event must be spectacular. I am sure that Bill would love this quite a lot and definitely have the perfect attires for such occasion.
In any case, both Angelina and I arrived very tired, and were glad to finally be able to rest. I still can't believe how strong and resistant she has been thus far. I am so proud of her and almost ashamed of myself.
A few senior ladies from our previous group are here as well, but only because they didn't stay in Leon last night but about 10km further. And great surprise, the Korean couple who had had their backpack stolen days ago also made the whole 37km walk today. So impressive! But his wife seemed quite beat. The husband is so hilarious when he speaks about his wife and how she must be feeling about him because of how far he made her walk today. Lol such a cute couple.
Last night, during the blessing, a nun mentioned that as peregrino/pilgrim, our end goal was to find God. It kind of woke me up from the lethargic state I was in and made me realize that I was thus not a true peregrino, as I am definitely not at all looking for God, but rather for myself or for the beauties of human nature and Nature in general.
Oh, and last words for the day. It seems like it is becoming a trend for peregrinos to call Angelina their angel because of how kind, generous and helpful she is to all. I am so convinced that her name was not given to her by hazard. :-)
This Camino is amazing!
Buenas noches...Buenos nachos!
Day 22: May 31st, from Hospital del Orbigo to Santa Catalina de Somoza. 26km.
Last night's paroquial was quite a disappointment in terms of spirituality vibe versus the usual paroquials. This one was rather just about the money. Barely even got to see and talk with the hospitaleros. But well, at least the place and the village were cute.
When hitting the road this morning we definitely felt the 37km we did the day before in our legs. Ufff our legs took a while to get warm, and on top of that it was freezing outside.
The sceneries were quite nice today. Big change from before. Bright red earth land spreading all over the meadows contrasting with clear blue skies and some patches of lush green cereal crops.
Our lunch break target was Astorga. Gosh, to this a day I still don't know if Astorga and Asturias are one and the same. I wish I had a map of Spain to check it out, am to embarrassed to even ask a local. Lol
On our way to Astorga we reached a little corner of heaven atop a hill, in the bright sun, and in front of some red brick house ruins. The place is called La Casa de Los Dioses. We had seen the red heart stamp on Luis credencial back in Castrojeriz but had no idea of how incredible that place would be.
Maria, one of the two "hospitaleros" of this cart on wheel (her partner, David, is apparently a legend on the Camino among the donativo people), simply welcomes you with her huge genuine smile. There cannot be any doubt at all about how genuine her smile and intentions are. She just wants to spread her love. Her cart and area are covered with colorful inspiring quotes about love and nature. And as she welcomes you she tells you to take whatever you want, that it is all free. And wow! I had never seen so many options of milks, spreads, juices and fruits so far, not even in small markets. Simply delicious.
As Angelina and I were sitting on a side little bench which also happens to be Maria and her partners beds at night, I told Angelina that this was a pure concretization of Meta. Those who practice Vipassana will understand what I mean by that. In a simpler way, the selfless spreading of love, compassion and positive intentions towards others.
And funny enough, as Angelina and I are making conversation with Maria, she tells us that she has done several Vipassana courses all over the world. Ha! This explains that. Once you have practiced vipassana, it is easy to see others who also practice it and truly believe in the Dhamma. Maria is such a concrete example of that. Offering all these delicious foods, and not even mentioning to people (unless they ask) that they can make donations if they want. There is not even a single little sign that says " donation" anywhere on her cart. Pure selfless act of generosity and kindness. Life is beautiful and so are human beings. Or at least they have the potential to be.
It was not easy for us to then put our back packs on and hit the road again, it almost felt like that place was calling for us to stay and be part of it.
Astorga is a beautiful medieval city filled with great energy. A lot of the ancient town has been preserved and not that much has been built outside of it unlike other places like Burgos, Leon, Pamplona...
Our lunch break was long, very long as not only were we both starving, but I also started to develop a tendinitis on my other leg. The good thing is that the pain on the first leg is almost gone, though the swelling remains.
Even though Astorga was beautiful, I still got very disappointed and frustrated when we were told that in order to see the cathedral we had to buy a 5 euro ticket. Absolutely ridiculous that these towns are not satisfied by the huge amount of business that the Camino is already bringing to the towns economy, but they also have to screw them/us by robbing us one night's budget just to see a religious site which should be totally free. Scandalous!
After lunch, we thus as usual skipped all of the paying historical and cultural sites of he town and kept walking straight out of town. The after noon walk was long, very long. I am pretty convinced that whoever did the maps of the Camino was either drunk or just didn't know how to use his/her tools. The distances mentioned on the official maps or even road signs are so wrong.
When we finally reached our destination for the day (we were both to beat to walk more today), we went for option #1 out of 2 options in town. I had met this old guy on his bike on my way up. Started a chat with him. Such a nice old man, before telling us about how his front door was on the cover of Paolo Coelho's book, he recommended me to stay at option #2 which according to him was much more "simpatico". Hmmm...glad we didn't listen to his advice. The hospitalero of option #2 is actually quite a jerk. Why? Hmmm...well, after we showered and did our laundry, we sat out in the street, in the sun to relax for a bit before ordering a bottle of wine and one of gazeosa (to make some tinto de verano), when arrived the couple of Koreans who had their bag stolen back in Boadilla. To make their lives easier and given how tired his wife seemed, I went to both albergues to check out the beds availability. All complete. Out of luck. Only available room is a double and for 35 euros, to expensive! Since we were at option #2, we asked the hospitalero if he could help us call the albergue of the next town to check availability so that our friends don't have to walk for nothing. He tells us his albergue has no phone so he cannot help us. Angelina right away tells him we will give him 2 euros for the call from his personal phone. He accepts. But no one answered the call. Quite scandalized by the hospitalero "unCamino" behavior, we leave. Our albergues hospitalero offers to make the call for free right away. Thank god, a good soul. But again, no answer. The next albergue is 4 km away but only has 30 beds. So no way to be sure that it won't also be complete. And the albergue after that is another 7km! To far! We feel terrible for our friends. It is unfortunate to see that business and profit making has taken over a lot of the spirit of the Camino. The Koreans end up deciding to not risk it and take the expensive room. Poor them, they already spent so much money buying a whole new set of equipment after their bag got robbed.
We invite them for a tinto de verano to cheer them up a bit, the wife is to tired and goes straight to sleep, the husband joins us and shares a bit of his story and life, if only he spoke better or little English. Lol it was such a surprise to learn that contrary to the appearances, he doesn't like to walk, but his wife loves it. We both thought that he was the one dragging his wife to do the Camino.
Later on, he came back to inform us that his wife insisted that Angelina use their private bathroom to take a long warm bath in their tub. Such a cute yet unusual offer. She said no! But he kindly dragged her by the arm, leaving her no choice but to finally accept.
The unexpected signs of gratitude of people after we do totally selfless acts of kindness by helping whoever is in need are just incredible and accumulating day after day. It is always very moving though. The Korean lady who we helped with her bag transfer the other day ended up crying on Angelina's shoulder yesterday when we bumped into her in a totally different town. Today these Koreans.
When we see how such simple little acts can make such big changes and difference for people on the Camino it only makes us want to do even more, and definitely motivates us both for what our future endeavors should be geared towards.
Helping people is the most rewarding thing one can do, especially when you actually don't expect anything in return. Try it!
It is now 8:37pm...good night!
Day 23: June 1st, already! From Santa Catalina de Somoza to Manjarin, 23km.
Today was a very short day. On purpose. I had heard days back while eves dropping into a conversation, that there was a great place to stay that was called Manjarín. So we kind of planned our day accordingly. A little break is most welcome. :-)
Starting off this morning was verrrry hard. We left at 6:43am, and today was actually literally freezing. Blanket of frost covering all the grass on both sides as well as the trees. It was freezing...and so were we. And because of the orientation of the road and the mountain we were walking on, it took a good half hour before we even were near the area hit by the sunlight.
We passed through a couple of little tiny towns. Cute but whose shops were so over priced trying to suck every euro out of each peregrino passing by. So much for the Camino spirit.
Walking for four hours we met no less than 4 Brazilians. It is now a fact, there are more Brazilians than French walking the Camino.
We reached what is supposed to be a major symbolic point for the Camino, la Cruz de Ferro. Hmmm...an iron crucifix welded onto a tall iron pole overlooking the valley, and whose base is covered in symbolic relics and messages left behind by peregrinos from all over the world. For us it felt more like a great place to take a little nap in the sun. So we did. :-)
As we saw several people starting to walk further, I felt the need to accelerate my pace in order to secure us two beds in the albergue we were set on. After all, it is the only albergue around and the next one is 7km further. So not taking any risk.
Strange thing is that all morning while walking, I set my mind on ignoring the strong pain I had on my left leg (tendinitis #2), and it worked. But as soon as I had to accelerate the pace, it came back strong. :-(
Anyhow, I made it quite fast to the albergue, or rather a refuge. The description made in the guidebooks was right on.
A very rustic one of a kind mountain refuge where peregrinos are assured a unique experience. No electricity, no running water. Toilet available by crossing the street and going to an old stone ruin. Drinking water is available by walking down the street for a good 300m and veering off to a farm land where drinking water is pouring 24/7 into a pool for cows to drink from.
The owner and hospitalero is supposed to be a descendent of the Templers.
The place is tiny and looks like it was built out of recycled pieces of wood and rocks. Covered in country flags, and knight and temples posters and photos. There are about 6 dogs and a few cats.
It is as peaceful as can get...and so far, we are only three here. The third one is a 74 yr old German lady (Edith) who has lived most of her life in Brazil. She is already a great grand mother! Two months before flying to Brazil she got hit by a car and fractured both her wrists. She still decided to stick to her plan and started her Camino. Her goal is to arrive in Santiago the day of her 75th birthday. It is funny as we were talking about religion she mentioned a famous Portuguese writer/spiritual leader who wrote incredible life lessons and guidance very similar to the Dhamma.
The dinner was only the three of us around the patio table as the sun was beautifully setting on the meadow pastures, accompanied by the sound of the cows grazing around their last bites of the day.
Very disappointing evening as we were all expecting to be immersed in the history and culture of the Templers, but none of that.
Aside from delaying us on our agenda and perhaps allowing for some rest of my leg, we both considered this stop a bit of a waste of time and opportunity to stay at a more interesting place.
Oh, the funniest and absolutely cutest thing of the Camino happened today, the couple of Koreans who got their bag stolen walked by our albergue in the afternoon. The husband was wearing knee pads. The same ones volley ball players wear, so we asked him why? Quite unusual for walking. Then the husband kneels down on one knee and makes the gesture of taking a photo of his wife. He is actually wearing those to kneel down each and every time he takes a photo of his wife, as from down is her best angle. Don't tell me you have ever seen something that adorable!? Knee pads, for 790km, just to take photos of his wife, when he hates walking and is doing this Camino solely to please her. That's what I call LOVE.
Day 24: June 2nd, from Manjarín to Ponferrada, 25km.
Uffff, last night was freezing cold and my allergies were terrible. But I made it through. Waking up this morning was a nightmare. But getting up and walking out to see Edith practice her Tai Chi facing the sun rise overlooking the valley was spectacular. Good morning world!
The morning walk was full of steep downhills. Ouch on the knees and tendinitis. We got quite worried about poor Edith and her condition, but could only hope that she would make it OK.
As usual we found a delightful spot by the river to have our lunch casse croute and mini siesta. Nice.
We were quite happy when we saw Juan popping up and catching up with us. Last time we saw him was before Leon. So meeting up and catching up again was nice.
I was so amazed at how relatively easily I managed to control the pain caused by my tendinitis and basically ignore it. Pure vipassana at work!
Ponferrada is a large town and so it actually starts way before its center. As we followed the yellow arrows we were quite upset to realize that there was an easy and very short shortcut to get directly to the town center and better yet, to the municipal albergue where we had decided to go. A Parroquial albergue with 150 beds. Sounded like a big factory without personality. But we were so amazed to discover the total opposite. Though we saw a lot of new faces, because we already knew so many, it felt like we were at home among family. Plus, the albergue is beautiful, in the sun, with a large front yard, with wonderful international music playing while people are chit chatting, snacking on foods, doing their laundry or just checking in. Such a positive vibe came out of that place.
We bumped into the Korean lady from Leon, Cristina, whom we helped with her bag. She saw us and was so happy. She actually cried and told us how much tired she was and how much she missed home.
We cheered her up for an hour. We played the parents and her the kid, though she is 60 and has kids our age. We made her smile. Mission accomplished!
We finished our beer and went to the peregrino prayer/blessing which was very moving. The Korean lady sang such a deep emotional korean song with an amazing voice. It feels that each time I get to speak up about my Camino at one of these sessions, I get more emotional inside.
We cooked together and dined all three of us. She wanted to thank us for our help. She brought us vitamin C, and even poured drops of propolis down my throat (I seem to have a beginning of a cold). She pulls out from the fridge some food she had cooked earlier. We add it to our dinner. Delicious and big heavy dinner.
Many people even walked by looking at us envious, I only wish I could just snap my fingers and increase the volume of what we have on our table as to give to all who want some. But every time we manage to feed an extra mouth with what we cook. That's a beginning.
As we clean and dry all the dishes of the albergue (most people don't really care and stalk up tons of dishes to dry creating a mountain around the sink) an older Brazilians couple plays some bossa nova outside. We can see them play, sing and dance through the window. The sun is slowly setting. We are so blessed to be surrounded by such fantastic people. Such a magical day. Could not end better.
When we are done with the dishes we join the Brazilian and sit down on the edge of the fountain to watch them play. He has the absolutely best broken voice ever. And she, his wife and obvious muse, accompanies him so harmoniously.
So romantic...
As we get up to go to sleep, he stops and kindly tells us that we make a beautiful couple, and that everyone can see it from far. We have been hearing this since we started the Camino... :-)
One thought crosses my mind as I am getting ready to go to sleep: when this Camino will be over, I won't just be sad because this trip will be over...I will be sad because I will miss these people from the Camino so much. But it makes me realize that the people I have met during the Camino, I could very much have met them anywhere else...or at least I like to believe. Only life will show me.
Day 25: June 3rd, from Ponferrada to Villafranca, 25km
Another freezing start of the day...though we were again amongst the last ones to leave the albergue, on purpose, in order to not take part of the rushed early birds flock. We took our time and had a good breakfast.
In Molinaseca we took a delicious and long lunch break plus siesta on the grassy side of the river, under the ancient bridge. Delightful. Camembert, saucisson, baguette...
As we were about to hit the road again, to our big surprise, we saw the Portuguese cousins and even Isabella (the Porto Rican) pass by on the bridge. Seeing Isabella back in the game and at our level was beyond surprising as she was very injured and supposed to rest for a good three days...which now I doubt she actually did. And she was walking extremely fast when she passed by. I guess she must be back on her two feet now then. Good for her.
We caught up with the Portuguese just to say Hello. They were staying in Molinaseca for the night. So we kept on going.
I was walking pretty fast by then, but Isabella was already beyond sight. Crazy girl!
The walk from Molinaseca, though only 7 km and beautiful was particularly painful on the legs. Ups and downs all along. As you go up you get hopeful that this is it, you will see the town from the top, but no, another uphill right across. Ufff!!! But arriving into Villafranca was spectacular. Magnificent little medieval town. Beautiful castle, churches, collegiatas, monastery, paved little streets, river front, bridges, houses...enough to make anyone want to stay a whole week and forget about the modern world. It really is a magnificent village.
As we arrived in town, given how late we started and how long a break we took, it seemed as if we were among the last ones to arrive, everyone was already on the main plaza at the cafe's, enjoying wine, sangria, tinto de veranos...
We kept on going and found the absolute best place to stay for the night. An old gigantic monastery reconverted into an albergue less than a year ago. Literally, gigantic, and totally isolated orientation wise, from the rest of the town. Though in the heart of the town, it felt as if we were somewhere else. Not a sound, not a soul. Tonight only about 6 peregrinos checked in. Nothing! Lucky us, we even got to have our own room with private bathroom, and for only 8 euros each! Luxury at a discount!
So after we walked around town, once showered and laundried, we got some groceries, and headed back to the monastery. As the sky was getting darker and threatening, we cooked ourselves a delicious dinner, as usual, ate it outside, watching the weather change, and the wind play with the few leaves in the courtyard, while sipping on our tintos de verano. Ufff...one euro bottle of wine plus 45 cents bottle of orange soda, so about 3 liters of delightful summer drink for less than a euro fifty, hard to beat.
We chatted with another Brazilian and an Italian about the way to take the next day. Three options, three degrees of difficulty, and three types of scenery. We all decided to take the second most difficult and second most beautiful.
After dinner, and while washing the dishes, we also chatted with this Portuguese guy who lives in england and doesn't speak Portuguese. Funny enough, he actually asked Angelina and I if taking a year off or two from life and job to travel the world was worth it. Ha! Such a simple question led to a good two hour chat about both our experiences and how never in the world such experience wouldn't be worth it. Uffff! Are you kidding?! The guy is actually 36 years old!...but he has been an accountant for 7 years now, that explains. Lol
We left him by 11pm, and with a ton of food for thought. I really hope he dives in head first and travels.
Night night...finally a night with intimacy, no snorers, no bunked beds, and no specific early time to leave the albergue. Sweeeeeet!
Day 26: June 4th, from Villafranca to La Faba. 23km
No internet for about 4 days now...feels good! I actually don't really think about checking if the albergue where we stay has any WiFi. Such a great feeling of freedom and peace. I like that. I will keep it that way until we get to Santiago, or perhaps until we get to Madrid.
Today's start was our latest thus far: 9am. So what?! It was so delightful to just laze out in bed and not feel any pressure whatsoever from the crowd to get up and get going. So we took our time. And guess what? It did not slow us down at all nor prevented us from enjoying our day or getting beds at the albergue where we wanted to stay. So big deal! We learnt yet again that rushing out in the morning doesn't give us any more benefit than to start up late.
We decided to take what the guides call the Camino duro and what the signs on the road just mentioned as closed. Why? Simply because the Drago trail seems way to hard and the recommended trail everyone takes is along the road.
The trail started extremely steep. Almost vertical. Slightly challenging right after having breakfast. Lol but perfect way to finish waking up.
As we started walking up we met "Hungary", a girl from Hungary we have been seeing since the beginning of our Camino, and a German retiree called Harald, extremely outgoing and interesting.
We walked all four together for a good two hours. It made the climb up go by very fast.
The scenery from up there was spectacular. We could see the whole town, including all the ancient buildings, the bridges, the river... beautiful. We could even see the poor peregrinos who were walking along the boring road. Lol
The walk was magnificent. Along the ridge of the mountain and in the forest at the same time. Walnut trees and chestnut trees all over. Cows grazing here and there, and not a human soul around. Absolute peace.
After a while we finally had to reconnect with the main road, unfortunately. Which made the walk of most of the rest of the day quite strenuous and boring.
Then we finally got to the part that was most challenging, probably of the whole Camino given how steep, long and fully exposed to the sun it was. What a work out for the legs and the lungs. But up hill felt so much better on the ankles than flat. So good for me.
Today was the first time that Angelina complained about feeling very tired. Finally! At last!!! Not that I want her to be tired. No! Just that I was starting to think that she was a machine. Lol going and going and going without a blister or pain. So even though we could have probably pushed another 5km to the top of the mountain, we decided to stop for the day when we reached La Faba. Great decision anyway as La Faba is a beautiful little peace of heaven lost in the forest.
The Parroquial albergue is gorgeous and all made of wood inside, which gives it a very warm feeling. Since we arrived relatively early as usual, we got ourselves our usual liter of beer and orange soda and sipped our cocktails while eating our saucisson, laying then napping down in the grass in the sun. So pleasant. :-)
We later on cooked ourselves a yummy dinner, surrounded by Italians, Spaniards and Koreans who were also eating their own dinners. Quite convivial.
Early night. The day was long and hot. Let's see what tomorrow holds for us.
Day 27: June 5th, from La Faba to Samos. 35km.
Today is my little niece Lola's first birthday!!! Happy birthday Lolita! May life bring you joy and happiness, and may you give the same to others.
Once again we were the last ones to leave the albergue. I like that. Calm and peaceful. And no one either behind us or right in front of us...though it didn't take long for us to catch up with the ones who had left earlier. Anyhow, same as yesterday, 5 extremely steep km to start the day though this time fully in the wet forest. Spectacular colors, views and light. It made for a beautiful morning.
We even got to finally cross the border between Castilla&Leon and Galicia. Welcome to Galicia!!! Where the weather is wet and often rainy, but where the landscapes are the nicest of the Camino. Supposedly...
My tendinitis is still here but thankfully enough, I am still able to put it aside and ignore the pain. Thank you vipassana. As soon as my mind slips though, the pain seriously and excruciatingly reminds me that the tendinitis is still here.
Lunch break was quick because of the cold wind. 12:30 we were back on the road... Our final destination for the day was supposed to be Triacastela, 25km away from La Faba. Once there, by 3:30pm, we realized that it was not a very pleasant place to stay at all. So we took a beer break, and decided to push another 10km to get to this place called Samos, which is supposed to have a giant monastery with an albergue. The one photo from the guide looks amazing. And so we pushed. The trail in the forest was priceless. Total isolation. Just the birds and the trees...and us. Magical...but so long! It took us 2 hours to make it! Ufff it felt like it was never ending.
Arriving at the edge of the forest, we could overlook the whole village dominated by this huge ancient stone square monastery, it was just breathtaking. Massive!
As we walked into the village we barely had time to bump into Isabella (yes, she made it that far that fast!), shower and change before mass started. The mass was given by the monks from the monastery. Very nice chants.
Then we went and sat on a little bench, overlooking the monastery and bunch of geese playing in the park, and had our dinner casse croute. The albergue had no kitchen.
What a long day which didnt even feel all that tiring for either of us. Great! :-(
But now it is cold and gray, so off to bed we go!
Sleep tight.
Day 28: June 6th, from Samos to Ferreiro, 28km.
Surprisingly this morning was not cold at all when we left. Seems that the fact of being enclaved in a sort of bucket, the town is protected from the cold morning winds.
Anyhow, after a hearty breakfast of eggs and bacon, we headed out of town. No place open that early to buy supplies.
The morning walk was rather peaceful without any specific views or events. We finally made it to Sarria where I took a long time to buy some groceries to refill our supplies and then climb back up to the old part of the town where Angelina was waiting for me.
I was so happy on my way climbing down the long steep stairs to bump into Juan. It always makes me happy to see familiar faces. And Juan is such a nice and funny guy.
Lucky us, as we arrived in the town we found this peregrino shop and decided to buy each a poncho, just in case, given Galicia's reputation for its phony rains as well as for our plan to hitchhike all the way back to Madrid once our Camino finishes. As we were leaving the bar where Angelina was waiting for me, the sky was getting black of rainy clouds. But we had enough time to make it to the top plaza where they had a Friday market as well as a covered area down some stairs where we were able to lunch and taste the famous regional pulplo (octopus). It was succulent.
Then, it was an afternoon of heavy rain and terrible side winds.
The weather got so crazy at one point that we had to hide in a cemetery for almost an hour. I had seen a shed stuck to the church which was in the middle of the cemetery. Its door was open, so we ran inside. Just a bunch of dusty old church furniture. Nowhere to sit, so we stayed standing up watching the rain and wind have the battle of the century. Our shoes were already wet, but still...we waited. It felt a bit uncomfortable to hang out there in that cemetery...
We finally decided to face it all and start walking again. It took us a good 3 hours to reach our stop. On the way we met another Brazilian we had already met before, Soraya. We were both convinced she was at the most 25 yrs old, and were both shocked, especially me, when she told Angelina she was actually 37yrs old, and mother of a 12 yrs old. The shock of the Camino!
Anyhow, we decided to stop in Ferreiro by 4:30pm, not so much because of exhaustion but rather because I was so starving. Funny enough, though he had left a while before us, we bumped into Juan steps away before arriving at the albergue.
The first one was full, so we walked to the following one, the municipal. Probably the second worst place we have stayed at so far. As blend and small as can be. But at least, we had two beds next to each other, and the hospitalera was very nice. If only the place had hot water.
After a good late lunch casse croute we both took a little nap at around 6pm...
Day 29: June 7th, from Ferreiro to Palas de Rei, 36km
Last night nap was not so little as we both only got out of bed the next morning at 7am.
This morning again we were the last ones to depart the albergue. I just like that, to leave with no pressure...taking our time and starting to walk alone without a noise around.
Yet, somehow, as we are approaching the end of the Camino and as we are slowly splitting away from the different people we have been meeting along the way, I found myself this morning wishing for us to arrive as soon as possible because I was feeling a bit tired of all this walking every day. Lately it has felt more like we were just walking for the hell of walking to get to a destination rather than for the human and spiritual elevation produced by the journey. In other words, since none of our friends are left around anymore, we are just walking to get to Santiago quickly so as to be able to make it to Finisterre as well. I miss Chris and Joyce, and Jean Michel, and Luis, and the cute Korean couple, and the Brazilian couple, and the Japanese biker, and the old German guy, and the fancy Korean couple, and the girls from Quebec, and the Australians, and all the other familiar faces we have seen day and night.
Today we concretely got to understand what the famous yoyo rains of Galicia are. What a pain! Literally, when it starts raining, you stop, get your poncho out of your bag, put it on, and by the time you are walking again, and strapping your bag back on your back, the rain stops. You accept, and keep walking with your rain gear on. After a short while you are boiling hot with all the layers on, so you stop to undress and fold back your rain gear inside your bag. You start walking again for a few minutes, and the rain starts pouring again. You think someone is playing a trick on you because of how ridiculous it feels. But no, it is the reality. And it is the reality of the weather in Galicia. Uffff!!! Thank God it is only for the last few days of the Camino. It would drive the peregrinos insane otherwise.
We had our lunch casse croute at Portomarín, a beautiful medieval town, perched atop a hill overlooking a lake/river port. No possibility to have a real casse croute laying down in the grass anymore because of the rains.
The afternoon walk was long. Today I started listening to my iPod. It seems a lot of peregrinos do that and I wanted to test it. Listening to music when I run motivates me and increases my speed, as well as allows me to get away and get to a stage of pseudo meditation very fast. So I tried since I normally walk faster than Angelina anyway. Gosh I had missed my music! And as I had expected, as soon as I put my earphones on, my pace started to dramatically increase. Ufff...I even started to run at some point on a steep hill, with my pack on. If it weren't for my tendinitis, I think I would have run that hill all the way to the top. A good km. Good thing I remained prudent.
Playing rain yoyo all afternoon, we finally made it to Palas de Rei by 5:30pm, our latest arrival this far. We pushed that far as we were not that tired and so as to give us more flexibility regarding the next two days to arrive in Santiago. In the lobby of the albergue we were so happy to bump into this Korean mother and daughter we have been seeing for most of our Camino but hadn't seen for a few days now.
I suggested to Angelina that we walk at night in order to be the first ones to arrive in Santiago early morning. She agreed. So the plan is to save a good 10 to 20km and start walking between 4 and 5am. Ideally we can only have a max of 10km, that way we still have enough energy to then, once we get our Compostella and attend the famous noon mass in Santiago, to hit the road walking again and crank a good 30km on our way to Finisterre. It seems that we will actually have the time to walk to Finisterre in the end. Great news! :-)
Palas de Rei does not have much to offer. Several albergues and restaurant in a dead cold town. So after shower and laundry we went straight out for dinner. For once we decided to not cook ourselves and splurge on a Menu peregrino. Delicious local dishes. We really both liked the Tarta de Santiago, yummmmy!
I hope that after this Camino I will still like ham, cheese, baguette, sardines, pasta and rice. We have been eating so much of these for the past four weeks.
Oh, before diner, and as we were chatting with some locals in the door way of the restaurant we wanted to walk in, we were briefly explained why the local dialect of Galicia is so similar to Portuguese. It seems apparently that Portuguese actually would come from that dialect. That before the land of Portugal was ceded to the Portuguese, it was part of Galicia. Hmmm...as soon as I have internet again I will need to do some googling.
After dinner, on our way back to the Albergue, I think that we had our first fight (about something rather trivial). A little fight, nothing mean, but a fight nonetheless. But thankfully, it was quickly solved and forgiven. Good sign! Made me feel really good that we could get over this so quickly and easily.
So voila! Tomorrow we will probably only walk 29km, for albergue options purposes. There is actually a big convent converted into a 400-bed albergue about 5km just before entering Santiago, so we are trying to plan in order to spend the last night there, maybe.
One doubt in my mind remains as I am writing this post and hearing the street noises from the window. Since all the albergues close at 10pm, that we have always been staying at albergues since we started, and since Spaniards tend to have their meals much later than most cultures, would that mean that the locals would have their dinner after 10pm and that it is why we never manage to see much city/town life wherever we spend the night? We are still both so intrigued (and so are all the other peregrinos we have spoken with) by the fact that the towns and cities we go through no matter the time of day, are almost always dead empty and deserted. The strangest thing ever. Almost makes me want to scream every time we walk through the main streets of towns "it's OK, come out, we come in peace!". Lol
Day 30: June 8th, from Palas de Rei to Arzúa. 29km in the rain!
Wow! Last night we had the absolute crowned kings and queens of the world snoring competition. Even if I tried to make the loudest and ugliest bestial noises I would not be able to even compete with the two monsters we had in our dorm last night. It was beyond sound effect creativity. Jurassic park would sound like a cartoon next to this.
We exited town at about 8:30am after finding the local bakery and buying croissant, pain au chocolat, baguettes, and empanadas. Yummmmmy!
The sky was already black and threatening. Another day of rain yoyo ahead. Not fun.
Very funny thing occurred during the morning. An passing by a little farm with several cows grazing, we saw one who was literally standing up with its head against a tree trunk with a 90 degree angle, as if it wanted to push the tree away, except that the cow was not moving, just staying in that same position as if it were sleeping. It was hilarious.
After an hour or so, we bumped into Lucas, our Brazilian friend who was walking alone. So we grouped walked until our next break where Angelina could finally have her carahilio (cafe with Cognac) to get her morning energy booster. It is only then that it started to rain. Lucas stayed behind to finish his breakfast, and we got going. Then only started the long not enjoyable walk in the rain and mud throughout the Forrest. We got a little bit of sunshine when we arrived at that little donativo tent in the middle of the Forrest. These two guys from Estonia were trying to find a creative fun and selfless way to make their way back home after traveling from Estonia to Malaga hitchhiking. Very cool young guys. Interesting story.
Angelina being her usual generous self gave them about 12 euros. Quite a large sum given our daily budget. Definitely more than her total daily budget when she was traveling throughout Asia last year.
Anyhow, it was a nice little break to give us some more energy before hitting back the trail.
Ufff...after walking a total of 29km, we decided to stop. Angelina was tired and I was starving. Both of us had our shoes totally drenched, and were starting to get quite cold. Such a pity as we were only 5 more km away from our target town. Oh well, that only meant that tomorrow we will have yes or yes to walk a total of 35km no matter what.
In Galicia all the municipal albergues are called Xuntas. It is strange because all along before we arrived in Galicia, everyone was raving about Galicia saying how much better and more beautiful it is compared to the rest of the Camino. It hasn't been our experience at all so far. On the contrary. The landscapes are not that appealing at all, and the Xuntas are by far the worst of the Camino. Basic showers with barely any hot water. Kitchen but not a single pot to cook anything. And only very modern buildings and infrastructures lacking any charm or personality. And well...the rain yoyo I already told you about. So Galicia...no thank you.
Towards the end of the days walk, we passed an 86 yr old French woman who was also doing the Camino. I have been so impressed so far by how resistant and strong the senior peregrinos are. Putting us, the younger generations, to shame without a doubt.
We are now quite frustrated as it is 6:15pm, we are showered, laundried, and fed, and it is bright sunny and warm outside. Bummer! We should have known that the sky would open up eventually.
To late now. We are here and have paid. Tomorrow is another day and will for sure be a long one...but exciting as our last day before getting to Santiago.
Day 31: June 9th, from Arzúa to Santiago. 40km!!!
One of our earliest days so far. We were out the door by 7:15am. The weather was very strange. Both low grey sky, and very thick humidity floating in the air.
Today was to be our last long leg before reaching Santiago. The plan was to walk 35km to the huge albergue 5km before Santiago and see what we want to do.
We walked all morning, between heavy rain and dark sky. Poncho on, poncho off. Our bags were heavy, filled with food. Our pace was good, fast. Fast enough that we pretty much left all our familiar friends behind us. Unintentionally. We just wanted to make sure to arrive as close as possible early enough to give us time to rest and decide. And with such humidity and rain, slow walk was not an appealing option anyway.
I am not going to lie, we took multiple short stops. 40km is a long walk, at least for us, so we needed a few resting moments.
As we got closer to Santiago, our mind shifted and made us want to push all the way and get it over with. Angelina however, wanted to take a break and a not of a pause to peacefully digest the Camino before passing the finish line and getting into all the crowd and commercial pressure we had heard about which would definitely create a bit of chaos into our peaceful and spiritual journey thus far.
We made it to the giant albergue 5km before Santiago. We checked it out but quickly got settled on what to do. The place was definitely not what was described in the guide books. It was pretty much a huge bunk bed warehouse, sort of like army baraques. Not quite the perfect place to soak one last night into the spirit of the Camino. Definitely not.
So after a coffee and a few cookies, we took off and hit the road again. Those last 5km felt so long. Especially since the city of Santiago itself is huge and long, and that the entrance of the city is a good 3km far from the historical center and its famous cathedral, in other words, the peregrino hang out. So it was actually another 8km and not 5km like we thought.
Entering the city with our backpacks on did not create as much emotions as either of us had expected. Well, it actually didn't create any emotion at all for me.
For my part, it made me realize that being a peregrino and doing the Camino is actually nothing special in the eyes of other people. In Santiago hundreds of peregrinos pass through every day of the year. So indeed, why should they be special. But it strongly reinforced the fact that I was doing the Camino for myself only. I walked for me and no one else. To some people peregrinos are maybe special, but why should it matter, why should we give that any importance. Does peoples opinion and feelings about our doing the Camino really impact our Camino or is it rather the other people who are also doing the Camino with us? Isn't it in a way similar to life in general? Don't we sometimes put to much importance in what other people, strangers, might think of our acts and life, when it actually has no importance at all. So that was an interesting experience.
Further, when we finally made it to the historical center and started to get more and more soaked into the actual Camino "HQ", I also didn't feel much, even when I stood in front of the cathedral. I think it was perhaps due to the fact that I didn't do the Camino for a specific reason other than to live the potential experiences it might offer and see how it could impact me and my life. But I was not surprised to see many people crying or just paralyzed standing up there in the middle of the plaza staring at the statue of Santiago atop the cathedral. It was incredible to watch those people and try to understand or imagine what could have been there motivation to do the Camino that led them to have such strong emotions at the end.
For some people that Camino is more a physical challenge than for others, hence the emotions when these people manage to actually overcome those challenges and reach the goal. And I honestly don't believe any of this had anything to do with religion. For all I know that cathedral could have been anything else, but as long as it represented the final end goal, I am convinced it would produce the same emotions in people. Witnessing the power of the mind everyday on the Camino was something spectacular. But witnessing the result of people realizing what their mind power allowed them to achieve is just magical.
So, after observing other peregrinos for a while, we queued up in the line to get our Compostela, slightly worrying about getting a place to sleep for the night. My main reflex from the moment we entered Santiago to the moment we exited it was to constantly look around to try and spot the different people we had met all along the Camino. I really wanted to see them all and give them a big congrats and good bye hug. Angelina, her, seemed quite more absorbed by it all.
We got our Compostella, again, for my part, without much emotion. We then walked up the road a bit and managed to find a fantastic albergue. No double room, but a bunk bed would do. We were exhausted.
We checked in at about 8:30pm. We were greeted by another peregrino who had also arrived today but much earlier, and who offered us a glass of bubbly wine. Very nice of her and very Camino of her. :-) it was already quite late. So quick shower and laundry, and off we went again to grab a bite to eat and walk around at night. As strange as it might sound, it was our very first time we could actually be outdoors after the sunset. All the albergues thus far had for rule to close their doors at 10pm, when the sun usually sets around 10:40pm. So what a change for us, and what beauty to see Santiago after the rain, and at night. Peaceful, more quiet, and definitely more mystical than during the day time.
I wish I had not been that dead tired so we could have walked around the city much more.
Though it was not really an early night, given that for once we were able to be out all night, we didn't take much advantage of the occasion and did go to bed somewhat relatively early.
Though the famous peregrino mass was to be at noon the next day, we wanted to get up early to watch the sunrise over the city and walk around a bit before heading out to Finisterra. Ha! Yeah right! Comical of us to think that we would manage to wake up by 6am.
Day 32: June 10th, from Santiago to Negreira. 22 very long km.
Comical indeed. We only managed to get out of bed by 9am! Was good to sleep in for once.
After a long and yummy breakfast we finally made it outside and headed straight to the mass so as to secure good seats. The cathedral was definitely much more impressive from outside than from inside.
The first great surprise there was to bump into Hans. Unbelievable! This machine of a man had arrive about a week before us and had already managed to walk to Finisterra and Muxia! Ufff!!!! It was so good to see him.
Then throughout the mass it was just a very pleasant accumulation of familiar faces popping out of every corner. That is what gave me emotions mostly. Seeing friends faces passed the finish line and without needing to say a word, congratulate each other for the achievement with the warmest mental hug.
We got very lucky, normally the very famous giant incense burner only gets swung in the cathedral on Sundays and holidays, but today, a group of Germans had splurged the 300euros to get it done. (Ridiculous how the church managed to make a business out of it, when it literally doesn't cost more than a couple pieces of coal and a match.)
Anyhow, what a spectacle. As you can imagine the cathedral ceiling is very high, yet the monks managed to make the incense burner almost touch the ceiling each time they swung it from side to side. A beautiful spectacle of smoke, scents, and precision.
The mass service didn't move me more than that either. Like I told Angelina, for me the finish line was not Santiago, it was Finisterra, so I was still in walking mode, and Santiago was just a break.
After the mass we managed to find all the faces we had spotted out and give a hug to each of them. Those hugs made me feel very emotional as they were a sort of goodbye as well. But rather a see you never than a see you later. No exchange of emails or anything. Just warm emotion filled hugs. We had gone through a lot together during the past month, but like during the Camino, no good byes. Life goes on, and who knows what might happen. Ufff...that was the hardest for me. Throughout the morning we bumped into Sebastien, Spanish guy, Hans, Maria, Korean father and daughter, Korean mother and daughter, 65yr French women, Indiana Jones, Quebec girls, Lucas and his crew...and more. It was surreal to see Sebastian here. He looked all cleaned up and groomed. Only hick up is that he got all his belongings stolen last night while he accidentally snoozed outside on the plaza. All he had left was his Compostela. The second time it apparently happens to him. Is his story true? We don't know. I still gave him some money for food and stuff. May the rest of his life Camino take him to where he wants to go.
After lunch, we picked up our bags and headed out of the city towards Finisterra. In the street we bumped into Korean mom and daughter. We hugged each other to say bye. These two hugs are strangely probably what gave me the most sadness and emotions of the Camino.
I guess my mind was processing it the following way: we are now really leaving the city where everyone is. Very very few people will continue on by foot to Finisterra. So very few chances to see anyone else from our Camino anymore. Hence, a sort of final end of one of the most valuable part of the Camino to me, the people we had met all along. No good bye to Juan, or Ecuador, or the other Koreans...
And so we walked out of Santiago.
The following 22km were filled with a lot of silence from both of us...on top of the difficulty of the climb and unbearable heat. We left Santiago at 4pm and arrived in Negreira by 8:55pm, 5 minutes before the local supermarket closed. Ufff! Just in time.
We got groceries, cooked, and silently went to bed. Though our friends were behind, our camino was not over, two more very long and hot days during which we knew we wouldn't see many people at all.
Day 33: June 11th, from Negreira to Olveiroa, 33km.
Ufff! The first 12km in the morning were long, very long. Most probably felt that way because of the sun that was just killing us. Dramatic change from the previous mornings where we got used to walk on cold/cool cloudy shaded trails.
On the way we met a mid 40's French guy, former guitar teacher who sold all he owned to make the very first trip of his life: the Camino. And he actually left from Paris! What a first trip. So him and I walked next to each other for quite many km to share our stories. Pity he didn't speak a word of Spanish or English. And given his very fast pace, Angelina was far behind us, but enjoying her own pace and walk.
We finally made it to the fist pueblo since take off. Well, we took off at 10am. So it was already a not late. But no town for 12km. When we made it to that pueblo, we sat down on a chair and got ourselves a beer each for the first time. I drank mine almost straight up. Hahaha! Ufff it hit me right away. I was floating in the air and quickly forgetting about my fatigue and sore feet.
And another big sock of the Camino, all of a sudden we see arriving this ultra muscular Polish guy and another girl. They had left from Santiago this morning!!! They had 22km more than us and were passing us. Incredible! Machines! Lol they took off and we only saw them again at the town where we stopped for the night. A total of 55km for them! The Polish guy wanted to make the Santiago - Finisterra in two days instead of 3.
Anyhow, the afternoon walk was just as long. Angelina took a little nap on a wooden bench in a small park while I was petting this huge yet skinny dog.
We finally made it to Olveiroa, we intended to get a double room. At least for the last two nights. We arrived and surprisingly enough, all the albergues were full. All but the municipal which had 4 beds left. Crazy. We barely see anyone on the trail during the day yet at night the albergues are full. Surreal.
Lucky us, as we were about to attempt to walk to the next town, 5 km m away, we saw the Brazilian guy, Rogeiro, pop up in the street. Hr quickly took us to the albergue and helped us secure two bunked beds. Oh what the hell. One note night in dorms wouldn't kill us. And funny enough, when we got to the albergue municipal, er saw so many familiar faces. The dutch couple, the woman from day two, the Hungarians, and more. It was so nice! So we stayed there. A very cute little corner of the town. Quiet and isolated, surround by little stone houses.
When registering the hospitalera, Puri, helped us secure a double room in Fisterra, at the albergue that Hans had recommended us, Albergue do Sol y da Lua. Thank God! No need to worry now. So we have her some chocolate and a little souvenir I had bought in Nepal to thank her for her kindness and generosity with her time and help. She didn't know what to say. So she brought us a bag with two fresh lettuces, fresh onions, and some fresh strawberries from her families garden. Perfect to add to the simple dinner we were cooking before dying of exhaustion. Lol
Puri's reaction was so sweet. It made me realize how often peregrinos and any other people for that matter often take it for granted when someone helps us, and how a simple thank you of a gesture of gratitude can change the whole situation and make the helper feel so special.
Our dinner was simple but delicious and supplemented by fresh ingredients from Puri and some sa!t from the Brazilian lady who owned the tiny bar across the street.
Right after dinner we went straight to bed. We were way to tired and had decided to wake up at 5:30am tomorrow in order to walk at night accompanied by the full moon...and it would be our very last walk of the Camino.
So sweet healing dreams.
Day 34: June 12th, from Olveiroa to Finisterra, 32km.
The reason why people walk to Finisterra is many fold. But one of the main reason is because Finisterra is where the 0km of the Camino is, on other words where it all began back in the days. And well, Finisterra which literally means the end of the earth because it was believed to be the most west piece of land of the "European" continent back then, makes it quite an interesting and symbolic destination to push the Camino until.
Waking up so early after having passed Santiago, we thought we would be the only ones. Yeah right. Just about everyone else in the albergue seemed to have had the same idea. But the good thing was that a few minutes of interval between each group, in the pseudo dark still gave us a strong feel off being alone, overlooked by her majesty the full moon, a lua cheia.
In a romantic way, I liked the idea of waking up and starting to walk to a lua cheia, and ending our day to sleep in an albergue do Sol u da Lua.
Today's walk didn't feel so bad. We knew it was out last leg of the journey, so our mind used all of our remaining resources to help us take it through the day.
The most spectacular part though was when we reached the top of the highest point of the day, and discovered the beautiful sight of the turquoise blue ocean bay ahead of us. It was like a breath of fresh air injected in our lungs all of a sudden. That's when we knew we had made it...or so we thought. It was still a good 15km to the end...so a good three hours on flat, but since it was all ups and downs it meant more time.
We stopped at the first town by the water we found. A very well deserved lunch break. A long break. After all, no rush, since we had our reservation...but we were far from imagining how hot and rough the sunshine would be the longer are waited. And taking a little nap on the sandy beach, in the sun was probably not the best of ideas. Lol
The sun today was purely criminal. I would hate to be doing the Camino in the middle of the summer. Total suicide.
Anyhow, the town of Finisterra is much bigger than I had imagined. I guess its remoteness doesn't necessarily mean that it should be tiny.
We arrived at the center of town where the municipal albergue is by 2:30pm, where we obtained we obtained our Compostela of The End of the Camino. Voila! We had accomplished it. We pushed ourselves and walked to the end. We were now done. What a fantastic feeling of relief, yet the lobby of the albergue was not the best of places for such spiritual internal momentary celebration. Oh well...the important was not that it was finished, but rather everything that had happened between when we started and when we finished. And that's days and days of personal reflection.
Our albergue was another good half km up the street. Yes, more walking. Ufff!!!
We checked in. A bit of a hippy place, but with a good vibe. People from all over just taking it easy, and sharing their lives with everyone.
Since the communitarian dinner was to be served by 7:30pm, we quickly showered and unpacked and did some laundry before heading out to the beach. Yes, it is he ocean and yes it is not summer yet. Which means cold, very cold water. But there was no way I would have walked all that way, to the end of the earth, and not taken a dip in this water. So another 1,5km later, we finally lay down on the sand, in the sun. At last. The real feeling of letting go, and fulfillment.
We both went for a couple of dips, but it was so hot and dry out that after two hours, we headed back to our room. Shade, shade, shade...and coolness. Yesssss!
Barely enough time for a little nap in our big matrimonial bed (we finally had one big bed instead of two small beds). Then dinner time rung. The food was good but little. Good thing I guess as it allowed us to escape from the dinner early enough to walk the 3km uphill until the very end of the earth to reach the Faro where most peregrinos o to watch the majestic sunset and do the traditional offerings of burning a piece of clothes of donate their Camino shoes to the wind.
3 more km to walk up meant 3 more km late at night to walk down. Ufff!!! And we thought we were done with the walking! Lol
Given the late hour, we almost ran those 3km, as we didn't want to miss any of the sunset. Passing and bumping into other peregrinos was so nice as everyone was in the same happy fulfilled mood.
When we got there, it was magical. The sun was so big and close that it felt as if we could touch it. They call it la puerta del Sol, the gate of the sun. It really looked like a a giant gate the sun was making, where we could only dream of going through and reach the heavens on the other side. But even more magical was that as the sun was setting the full moon was rising, almost as of trying to run after the sun to give it a big hug over the ocean.
So we picked a big comfortable rock and sat down, in each others arms, watching the spectacle unroll. Small groups of other peregrinos were dispersed all over the hill doing the same thing. At that specific moment you wish you had a mind reader to read what everyone must be thinking after having accomplished such a crazy thing as walking more than 800km, when other people chose to go to resorts, beaches, and other relaxing options for their vacations.
It was so romantic and moving. Angelina and I chatted a bit about our feelings during the Camino, what we had learnt, what we missed, what we were now looking for. When the last bit of the sun vanished and drowned into the water, I said one last loud "Bien Camino". Just saying this one last time moved me quite much. The sun, the most important peregrino of all, illuminating the lives on the Earth, allowing for everything natural thing thing that happens to happen. And also, because the sun was in many ways our most fervent companion and guide during the Camino. In our back every morning, and facing us every afternoon. Those cold mornings in Navarra and Castilla y Leon, we looked so much forward to stepping into its rays to get some warmth. And in Galicia we craved its return to stop the rain.
But that one last " Buen Camino" was also for all the peregrinos who were somewhere on their Camino. That simple sentence had been for us throughout our Camino both a kind of encouragement and a way to share a smile of kindness with other peregrinos on the road. Sort of a way to indirectly say to someone we pass by "Hi, how are you today? I notice you and congratulate you for having the courage to do what you are doing. May you be happy. I am here if you need anything." Lots expressed in such few words. That "Buen Camino" is powerful. But we learnt day by day the benefits of saying it to others and the benefits of hearing it from others. Almost like the Meta in vipassana.
By 11:30pm it was now dark, well, at least the sun was now doing its job on another part of the Earth and the moon had taken over. So we slowly walked back in the dark, overlooking the moon shining above the water. Beautiful.
Beautiful way to end the day and the Camino.
June 12th also happens to be the Brazilian Valentines day. Our day was definitely full of romantic moments from beginning to end. But so was the Camino. And so should our life in a relationship be I suppose.
Off to sleep and get some good deserved rest in our peaceful snore proof room.
Sweet happy and inspired dreams...
Day 35: June 13th. From Finisterra to Madrid...about 800km.
Angelina absolutely wanted to make it back to Madrid via hitchhiking. Excellent adventurous idea! A bit more fun and unexpectedness would not hurt us. Hehe!
Thee Camino being all about sharing, we wanted to keep on sharing, our story, our joy, our happiness with other people.
We were very lucky. Ha! Hard to run out of luck when traveling with an Angel anyway. ;-)
Our first car was this old woman from Cee. Ultra nice. From a family of peregrinos herself.
Our second car was actually a mini van from Caritas who took us all the way to A Corina. Two very nice retirees volunteers who even bought us coffee. The told us that hitchhiking would take us two to three days too make it to Madrid.
Our third car was this business man on a sales trip who was on his way back home in San Sebastian. He drove us all the way to Burgos. 170km/hr. A blessing as he saved us a ton of time. He tried to buy us lunch and beer but we were sneaky and faster, so we invited him. He told us his entire life story. He loved his trekking in Nepal, and will go back. He loved trekking in general. We kept chatting the entire way, about traveling and our stories. So entertaining. It was very moving when at some point, angelina snoozed out, he shared with me the difficulties he is having in raising his teenage son, almost as if he were asking for my advice. You could tell the situation was made him sad, but he needed someone to talk to about it. Like on the camino, we didn't exchange contact information, but the brief moments we shared were pure and true. And that's all that mattered. During the whole ride we were also able to pass by most of the villages we had passed by while on the Camino. It was o nostalgic to read the names of each town along the highway. And best of all, the town where we stopped for lunch was Bercianos.
Our fourth and last car was two Ecuadorian construction workers driving back from San Sebastian to Madrid. They didn't want to talk. So the whole ride was silent. Interesting how it worked out as in some ways that long silence not only gave us time and peace to nap but also to individually reflect on the day and on then Camino.
I had told Andrea the day before that we would try to make it to her place in Madrid by 8pm. We arrived at 9pm. Not bad! 34 days to walk more than 800km, and 11 hours to hitchhike it back.
It was good to see Andrea, and introduce Angelina to her.
But now we were home. Nothing but relaxation and sharing with Andrea how exciting and life changing our Camino was.
While we grabbed a bite to eat, Spain lost 5-1 against Holland. So the streets of Madrid remained calm and quiet...
