Kathmandu...wow!!!

Kathmandu is probably as opposite as can be from Pokhara. The sky is rarely blue, more locals than foreigners, English is not the first language spoken around, the majority of buildings are not guesthouses, and most importantly, Katmandu has a ton of culture and history to offer, and just as many old crooked streets and temples to get lost amongst. Though this comparison is entirely true when comparing Lake Side area of Pokhara to Thamel/Durbar Square area of Kathmandu, it remains true for the rest of the city when it comes to the history, crooked streets and temples part.

When I first arrived in Nepal, I had stayed in Thamel. Mainly because that's what I had been suggested by all other travelers in had met as well as the guidebooks. But when this time I decided to check out Freak Street/Durbar Square area, I was in awe and amazement so much I couldn't believe how incredibly vibrant and filled with culture and all the things I am constantly looking for when I traveled. I could spend weeks just sitting in the main square, watching people going about their day, morning, day and night. There is so much colorful and cultural activity going on to not let the eyes rest a second. A pure spectacle going on 24/7. And all the little intricate crooked streets all over the place remind me so much of morocco, with its very low old carved stone doorways giving access to beautiful ancient hidden courtyards. The square itself is filled with massive monuments and temples, all displaying the absolute most amazing and detailed woodwork I have ever seen in my life. The middle eastern woodwork is like a plain gross draft work compared to that of Durbar Square. (And that of Baktapur is at an even higher level.)

Anyway, the afternoon I arrived in town, checked in a small yet super comfortable room I a guest house where both Colin & Nathalie, and Enrico were, I was just filled with a feeling of contempt and happiness about being there. I had finally reverted back onto the path of traveling. Yes, I do love cities. I do love how vibrant with culture they can be. I do love how in some ways, all people are treated more equally. There are just so many people that unless you look very carefully, differences do not strike you as much. Cities are really places where everyone has a chance or the opportunity to change their life and take it to another level. I don't mean by this that I think cities are better than villages. Not at all. I am just saying that by the incredible diversity of activities going on, I find cities more interesting to observe. It is almost perhaps easier to blend in and be part of a city's action as a foreigner than it would be in a village.

Anyhow, yes I was happy and that is all that matters. Hehe!

On April 14th was the Nepali new year. Though it didn't seem that Nepali people would make a big deal out of it, we had heard that in Baktapur (most ancient medieval town in Nepal only 14km away) there would also be a very interesting "Bisket" festival going on.

Baktapur is indeed such a impressive medieval town filled with the most impressive temples, palaces, wood and stone works, and a incredible infrastructure very similar to Medina's in the Arab world. However, the downside of it is that it does come across as a giant museum for tourists, local tourists and foreigners alike. In my personal opinion, villages like Bhachok or Bhujung are just as ancient and medieval, but way more authentically maintained as places where people still live according to the old way of life (plus then introduction of smart phones and mp3 players of course!).

The entrance to the town costs $us 15. We managed to sneak in and dodge all the check posts. Good thing, because I don't know of I would be willing to pay such amount (relative to the local cost of living) to visit the town. In many ways, the Durbar square area is just as interesting. I must mention though that Baktapur is also famous for it buffalo curd/yogurt. And well, rightfully so. Such a yummy yogurt served in a small clay pot. Between Baktapur and Kathmandu I definitely honored this curd.

When I arrived in Kathmandu, I still had 2 weeks to be in Nepal, hoping to visit a couple of NGOs recommended by Beverly, and do some more site seeing. But as I was chatting with Angelina about Iran and Africa, I felt the urge to get there sooner rather than later, especially when I realized that I had already been in Asia for 13 months. So in one hour's time, to changed my plane ticket from Kathmandu to Dubai, and rebooked it for the next day. Very much spontaneous, but I guess that's how we Pisces are. I am sure Sylvette will fully agree with that statement. Jajaja

Anyhow, so now I just had one night left not only in Nepal, but in Asia. No better way to spend it than to have diner with Colin, Nathalie, and Enrico. And we also randomly bumped into Walter, the Dutch retired engineers from the vipassana course who happens to live a block away from our guest house. A great evening overall, but I don't think that I fully realize that I was going to leave Asia (most probably for a very long time) the very next day. As I am in the plane en route to Dubai now, I am still not fully realizing this. I will need a bit more time also to reflect on my past 13 months.

So yes, Kathmandu was and is a spectacular place, and I could have spent many more days there, roaming around the streets for photo opportunities and cultural interactions. And the best part of it is to get in the streets at 5am, and go to Durbar square, buy a tea, and go drink it atop the tallest temple while watching all the locals start their day. Flower and offering sellers unroll their beautifully colorful merchandize on the floor, people perform their first prayers and offerings of the day. Many different practices of all sorts based on which temples and which god is being praised. Pigeon square is filled with tons of pigeons waiting for generous people to buy a basket of corn and feed them. A couple of cows roam around hoping to get some left over and seal photo ops from the pigeons. Vegetable sellers (women for the most part) are very delicately geometrically arranging their produce on the floor. Flash light sellers are doing the same. (This morning I actually wondered if flash light sellers sell more during the day or during the night?) Fruit sellers (men for the most part, and only on bikes) are pushing their overloaded bikes around scouting for the busiest places to park. Tiny bakeries are selling mouth their fresh production of the day (I miss them already). Curd vendors are sending their fresh filled clay pots delivery boys though the city. And so on...so many different beautiful things going on and to observe happen and evolve throughout the day as people go in and out of work, goods get consumed, and the sun goes around...I love it!

But by all means people, do not, I repeat, do not staying the Thamel area. Stay around the Durbar square area, and trust me, you will not regret it, it has nothing to do with what the guidebooks say about it.