Ghalel, to Lwang, to Pokhara...

Spending time in the Lwang Ghalel valley towards the end of my trip in Nepal was probably the best decision I took as it did in some ways reconcile me with the Nepali culture. But mainly because o was brought to the village by one of the villager and thus everyone treated me as a real guest rather than a simple foreign tourist. But what an experience!

Everywhere we would walk with Ram, everyone would pay him the highest respect. Like a super star walking around town. I was happy and proud to be his friend and to wander the streets with him, but I kept on wondering whether such respect was due to his family name or if it was because of the work he has done for the locals. He is my age and does not have a job, but he spends a lot of time and effort trying to lobby for the development of his village as well as link up with foreigners for volunteers and donations. Perhaps a combination of things I suppose...

Ram and I shared a room on the main floor. Amazing view of the whole valley. Good thing I always keep a few pairs of ear plugs in my bag since I started this trip. Ram snores like a bear! (Well, I am assuming that's how a bear snores) Incredibly loud. Lol was funny...especially in the mornings when I was meditating while he was still sleeping. Ufff...

Sharing a room with someone is always a challenge if the other one snores at night. Thus far I hate always been lucky. But my luck ended in Ghalel. Hahaha! No big deal though, I was so tired anyway I still managed to sleep through it fine.

Something I learnt about the Nepali village culture, or rather the Gurung culture is that they only have two meals per day. Their lunch at 9am and diner at 7pm. Sometimes a little snack around noon. But that explains why during the two meals they all without exception (old tiny women as well) eat like ogres who haven't eaten in days. A spectacle to observe the flexibility of the capacity limits of the human intestine and stomach. It has never ceased to amaze me so far.

Consequently, given my dramatically different eating habits, the portions I would eat at each meal were less than half of theirs and that amazed them each and every time. Giacomo, if you still eat the same way as the AU days, you would blend in without a problem. Lol

The second day, we went up to the neighboring village of Kalimati. A beautiful even tinier village. There we met up with Shiva, the youth representative of the village. 22 year old good looking and charismatic guy. He owns a gorgeous piece of land perched on top of a hill with a 360 degree view and wants to build a guest house there. So I spent an hour advising him on architecture, orientation, activities, events, strategy, and marketing to build, launch and manage his project. Such an amazing potential. I really hope he buys a good telescope and runs some weekly star gazing nights. Best place ever for that. And hopefully he can be the one introducing the culture of kites in Nepal. Strangely enough, the kite culture is well implanted in all the surrounding countries, but hasn't caught on quite yet in Nepal.

That same day, the primary school of Kalimati was doing its year-end graduation (all schools in the valley as well given that April 14th is their new year and that the new school year starts in the 16th). And so, though we didn't know, the whole school committee, parents and kids were waiting for us for hours to take part in the event and be the two guests of honor. We were both dressed like trekkers covered in dust from the biking. But they begged us to join them, so we did. As I sat down on the chair, facing all the 15 kids and their parents (farmers for the most part) I really felt something strong in my belly. How such simple, poor, modest people can so genuinely open their arms to a total stranger like me and praise me as I had given them the moon. It always surprises me so much to see how the poorest are the ones who give the most, and the ones with the biggest hearts.

No mater what kind of material or immaterial thing the "rich" can give you, it will never be as heart warming and moving as the genuine hugs and smiles of the "poor". I am only mentioning the two extremes here merely to make a point.

And so we spent a good two hours, most of which listening to speeches from different men (no woman was actually invited to make a speech) I even gave one myself, and then they asked me to help hand  out directly to the kids their graduation gifts while someone else would bless them by putting a red powder dot on their forehead. It was such a small, isolated, and would be such a meaningless event for most people in the west given the very young age of the kids, yet these villagers made such a big ceremony out of it, filled with smiles, joy, blessings, and even colors. That little "thing" gave me so much warmth and moved me quite much. It was definitely a privilege for me to be there yet the villagers definitely did all they could to show me that my presence among them was rather a privilege for them. How fantastic can human beings be when we expect it the least. I did all I could to not make any wrong move or disrespect any of their culture. I was so happy when one of the village heads came to be as I bed farewell and told me "Thank you for being so polite and respectful, p!ease come again."

The next day we were supposed to attend the same kind of event but for the rather larger school of Ghalel. However, Ram suggested I go to Lwang instead to witness some of the new year's eve celebrations instead. So the next day, after a super light breakfast, off we went, and Ram dropped me off on the junction, for me to the catch a jeep up to Lwang. Yes! More adventurous rides. And gosh! What a bumpy ride!

Thank you so much Ram, great suggestion! Lwang is such a gorgeous village with incredibly welcoming and happy people. Lwang is probably twice the size of Ghalel. Only 3 more homestays than Ghalel, but this village is famous for its wide spread organic tea gardens. And yes, Lwang is also very much keen on volleyball.

There in was supposed to be greeted by Santosh, Ram's equivalent in Lwang. I then got put into the nicest home stay and definitely the most beautiful and comfortable room I have had in Nepal. Gorgeous views of the whole valley right above my feet as I lay down in bed. Uffff!!!

Santosh mom and sister were such great hostesses, with so much humor and smiles. At night there was supposed to be an opening dance event for the new years Celebration. They took me there. It was so fun. All the villagers sitting on mini stools or on the floor itself, in this cement sort of warehouse, waiting for the show to start, while Santosh and his crew were still finishing up the AV set up.

Four visitors from Austria were in town, both involved in the tea business with Lwang. So they were the guests of honor on the stage, and multiple speeches were given in their honor. It was funny to observe how little villagers actually cared about them and how they were just interested and awake when the Austrians started giving candies and gifts away to all the kids. But the whole thing actually delayed the performance by two hours, which was quite late then.

Anyhow, finally the performance started. Not quite what I expected, but the kids, of all ages, danced with such ease, and joy on their faces, it was a pure delight to watch. If only the Tibetan/Nepali songs were much shorter and not so repetitive though...

The next day I was back in Pokhara, for a last night in town. At last...

I just realized why I have felt the need to get away from Pokhara as soon as possible.

Don't get me wrong, this city is fantastic in many ways, and the views from the roof tops at dawn and sunset are precious. The most yummy western food at affordable prices all over town. Beautiful lake side. Nice people. Nice weather...but that's the "problem". The more time spent here the less I feel abroad. Everything is to easy. In many ways it almost feels like being back in north america. To easy, and wayyyyyy to many foreigners. It has become much of a foreigners culture rather than a Nepali culture. In some ways, a bit like Kao San Re in BKK.

I need to really be on the road again. Struggle to find a place to eat for 1 US dollar. Struggle to get from A to B. Not see a foreign face for days. Be in the process of adaptation. Feel the thrill to be facing something totally new everyday yet delightful to discover and adapt at the same time.

Strangely enough, that last evening in town, there was a serious rain storm. Turning the city quite repulsive and dirty. Rain, mud, fog, and cooling temperatures...definitely the right time to leave that place...

Bye bye Pokhara, not sure when or if I will see you again. But Ram, thank you from the bottom of my heart for making my last week in the region like a dream. You have a big heart, don't change!