The Togians...

Today is Wednesday 12th June 2013.
It is 8:38am, and I am sitting in a boat in the little floating village of Dolong, departing to Bombulan...

The past three weeks have been nothing but pure fulfilment and happiness.

My  first niece was born on June 5th!!!!!!! Her name is Lola! Both mother and daughter are in good health. It was the most frustrating thing ever to be on the island, and without a single way to even call my sister. I did receive a text message from my mom to let me know that Lola was born, but the island being secluded as it is, text messages are about the only way to connect with the outside world...that is when the cell phone signal does want to work a little and show at least one bar of signal.

In my adult life as a traveller, there have been only two places in the world where i have found that the reality of the place actually surpasses its reputation: Brazil, and the Togians.

Today is the first time i touch my tablet in the past three weeks, and surprisingly enough, during these three weeks, I have not once felt the need nor desire to touch it to write about about my trip.

Though this experience will most definitely stay engraved in my memory forever, I still want to lay things down 'on paper' in order to be able to accurately and in details recount the bridge to heaven that is the archipelago of the Togian islands.

So here it goes...

Once upon a time, there was this French 'bule' (white tourist in local indonesian), finally able to leave the most secluded mining town of Kolonodale, after having made great friendships with a few locals and learnt a great deal about Tue local culture and the life style of people working in the mining industry.

It is May 26th, the sun is rising on the coastal town of Ampana, Central Sulawesi. I depart my losmen, Wisma Irama, to reach the little port and hop on the ferry to Wakai, main port of the Togian archipelago. On the ferry are only four 'bules'. Myself, a mid 40's Polish couple (who seemed like they had been having an uneasy time on their trip thus far), and what would become my most amazing roommate for the next two weeks to come, Chantal, 24 years old, Dutch-Canadian, absolutely fascinatingly well travelled and full of energy and stories (Yes, another Pisces). In so many ways, Chantal reminded me so much of Katherine, that it took me a few days to not call her Katherine, but Chantal. (Thank God she didn't even realise it).

Anyhow, there we were, en route to the most heavenly and mysteriously secluded of destinations, aboard this little ferry. Though Chantal and I spent most of the 4 hour ride, energetically chatting and sharing travelling stories on the top open deck (she got major sun burns from it), I also managed to make friend with the owner of the boat, Nadi, who also happened to be a great singer. Oh yes, little curious and definitely unique fact, the captain's cabin had a big karaoke screen, and Nadi spent most of the trip wandering around the boat with his wireless microphone, singing many songs in multiple, languages. This all was a perfect way to start this leg of my trip!

Finally we arrive to this tiny harbor: Wakai! Talk about seclusion!
As I am about to leave the boat, Nadi gives me his number and tells me to let him know whenever I am aboard his boat, as he would make sure that I don't pay a cent for my rides. (Good to know!)

Both Chantal and I had plans to stay at the same place and on the same island, Pondok Lestari, on Kadidiri. So we both waited until the little tuk tuk boat from Lestari showed up to the port. When the boat arrived, we saw a group of four young French people getting off (I guess you can hear French tourists from quite far lol). Anyhow, their look and attitude didn't make me want to reveal where I was from. No way, too ashamed to be assimilated with these four 'bodo' (idiots in bahasa Indonesia). So we had a lengthy conversation about their experience at Lestari, but all in English, without them even suspecting anything, nor even ask Chantal and I a single question about ourselves. Estupidos!
According to them, Lestari was a total dump, not welcoming at all, with a useless staff. Oh well...I suppose French people, thanks to the behaviours of such idiots, are stereotypilly reputed for being quite unconstructive crtitisizers. Shame!

Chantal and I looked at each other with a tad of suspicion all the way to Kadidiri. But when the beach was in sight, wowwwwwww! All suspicions disappeared immediately! We had arrived in heaven...a most secluded heaven. I just couldn't believe how any human being could possibly have a negative experience in such a place. Simply not possible!

The price of a bungalow on the beach, literally, 3 meters from the water at high tide, was rp100,000 (or about $10) a day per person, including all meals, and unlimited tea, coffee and water. Ha! You do the maths...I quickly did: $3,650 per year and fully fed, for a bungalow in heaven. If you know of any better deal, please let me know.

Only one bungalow was left, so chantal and I shared it. 

It didn't take long for us to meet Aslam (a young local from Kadidiri, very well eloquent in English, and who owned the boat used by Lestari, always wanting to chat about travelling, organising little trips island hoping, and most importantly, with a fantastic sense of humour; the owners of Lestari, Aka, a true Bajo and phenomenal spear-fisher, and his wife Mama (Mama is Aslam's sister); Raman (Aka's brother), his wife, and their absolutely most unbelievably adorable two daughters, Leha and Vidi; and the animals, Lucas, Ipo, Pirka (who gave birth to five little puppies 2 days before), and the cat of the house who gave birth to 5 kittens a couple of weeks before. How to not fall in love with such a welcoming environment?!

But that's not all. As if this was not enough to already paint a perfect portrait of a heaven, Lestari also had some guests who made the place and experience even better. Mauro, a 39 year old Italian chef and avid spear fisher, he has been living a dream life, from country to country and continent to continent, working for a few months and vacationing for even more months. Any exotic country, you name it, Mauro has lived in it for at least a year, and has the most entertaining stories to recount. I don't think I have ever met anyone in my life as entertaining and sociable as Mauro. For the past 4 years, Mauro has spent a total of at least 2 years living at Lestari!!! And this year only, has already been there for 4 months.
Then there was Jyrki. 24 year old, Finish, and has been travelling throughout Indonesia for numerous months. He has been at Lestari a total of one month. Jyrki is by very very very far the most hilarious drunk this planet has to offer. Not a single one men show comedian could ever compete with him. Yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah...
We were soon joined by Pierre and Marie, an early 30's French couple, (both teachers back home.) who knew India inside out, and who have been travelling on land from france all the way to Indonesia for the past two years. So obviously quite many incredible stories as well.

We called ourselves Team Kurva. Inside joke which I shall not disclose on this blog. Hahahahahahahaha :-)

For a brief few days, our bunch was also joined by Suzanna (mid 20's Dutch), and Ximena, 34 year old beautiful Argentinian woman. Finally, a Latin soul on my trip!!!!!!! Was so good to speak Spanish for a few days!

I think you get the picture that what made this heaven a heaven was mostly its people.

For the landscape, well...just picture a long white sand beach, coconut trees, transparent turquoise blue water, lime stone formations, and bright sun shine...

Oh, did I mention that each bungalow had a hammock on its front porch, that because of the sea breeze there was no mosquito, and that at night we would sleep with open door and windows thus perfectly hearing the sound of the waves crashing on the beach?

Our bunch spent most of our time gathered in the dining patio, sipping some hot tea or boiled water, and either sharing some funny stories (mostly from Mauro) or dream chatting about European food. (The only little downside of Lestari was the food quantity and quality, but we easily overcame this). Another past time we took a great liking for was the crafting of jewelry and black coral bracelets, under the tutoring of Aka. And well...Togians being a paradise for live and colourful giant corals, we spent quite a lot of time snorkeling off of the beach.

This island of Kadidiri, though quite huge, has only one beach with cottages. So right next to each other as if there were part of one and only cottage you have on the right side, Pondok Lestari, 100% Bajo run, then Black Marlin, a much more modern yet still maintaining a feel of localness, and then on the far left, Paradise, a much bigger cottage with many bungalows and a resort-like feel. Paradise hang out spots and long jetty fully justify its cottage's name. We even managed to spot some dolphins crossing the horizon while watching the sunset on our third evening from the Paradise jetty.

Black Marlin, due to its antisocial kind of arrogance rejected the other two cottages and thus its guests quasi never mingled with those of Lestari or Paradise. (Both Black Marlin and Paradise offered diving trips). Ha! Yes, even as remote a place can show some political conflicts.

On our second day, Aslam took us (Chantal, myself, and two kind of anti social German early 20's...well...not so anti social with Jyrki, hahahahahha) to the stingless jelly fish lake (similar to the one I went to when in Derawan, but not as dense), and then to the famous Karina beach (white sand and twisted coconut trees beach you see in most websites and magazines about the Togian Islands). Karina beach, like most beaches in Indonesia, was a bit of a disappointment. Chantal, Aslam and I spent a good hour picking all the plastic drifted on the beach to gather it beyond the reach of the high tide. I can't stop feeling angry and sad about the careless littering in Indonesia...and the fact that the two young Germans just laid down on the beach watching us collect the plastic without moving a finger.

Towards the end of our first week after arrival, Ximena came by Lestari (she was staying at Black Marlin, so very little chance to actually meet her) to inquire about scissors and potential help to cut her hair. Mauro gave it a first shot...but his hand was shaking a bit. So I happily took over. I have been cutting my dad's hair every time I can for the past few years, so why not help out Ximena. :-)

I think the result was quite good actually. He he! I would even go as far as saying that it was hot!

We took advantage of the opportunity to invite her to join us for our two-day trip we were planing for the following days, to go to Una Una, the whole Kurva Team, accompanied by Aslam and Raman. She gladly accepted our invitation.

So off we went, the following morning at sun rise. All 8 of us, on this traditional green wooden tuk tuk, powered by two lawn mower little motors. The water was as clear and turquoise blue as can get, with at least 25 meters of vertical visibility.

The plan was some morning snorkeling and spear fishing in the marine forests of beautiful corals; lunch cooked on the beach, and made from the fish caught in the morning accompanied by freshly cut coconut from the hovering trees; afternoon snorkeling at a different spot; make camp in this tiny little old wooden stilt fisherman hut on the broader between the beach and the jungle on the island of Una Una, and prepare diner with the fish caught in the afternoon. We were 8 people and all very starving from so much snorkeling...just to give you an idea of how many big fishes we had to catch for each meal. Groupers, trivalies, batfish, snappers, sweet lips...grilled on a wood fire and sprinkled with coconut oil for the most part. Yummmmmmmy!

Well...that plan was executed in total perfection! Only little change, Suzanna, Chantal, Ximena, and myself decided to sleep on the beach, surrounded by active night crabs, and under a couple of tall coconut trees where giant bats spent most of the night either fighting or working at increasing the size of their family. :-)

The sky was filled with stars, each one shining more than the other, and from time to time, tilted by a few shooting stars. For some reasons, the moon (full) only showed up at around 3am. Could hardly get more romantic than that.

Mie goreng and hot tea breakfast, and we hit the sea again for yet some more snorkeling. Another heavenly day ahead...

After an extended morning of snorkeling, we slowly made our way back to Kadidiri, escorted for part of the way by a group of 8 to 10 dolphins...magical!

The first ones to greet us back on the beach at Kadidiri were Leha and Vidi, with screams of joy and sunny smiles. Though our little trip was most magical, we were happy to be back 'home'. Yes, home, as the minute you first arrive on the Lestari beach and surround yourself with the family you immediately feel at home. Such a strange feeling to have in such a remote and secluded place.

Leha's smile is so magical, and can brighten any cloudy day. The poor joy miracle fell sick for a few days during the second week. All of us got so worried and tried all we could to help her out and get that magical smile back on her adorable little face. I spent hours passing cold and wet cloth on her forehead while caressing her head, like my mom used to do to me when I got sick as a kid. It took her two days to get better, to the joy of everyone at Lestari. What a relief! And just like that, the sun was up again, shining stronger than ever. :-)

Then sadly, the following days, the Kurva Team started to split, slowly.
Ximena left the day after the Una Una trip, Suzanna the following day. chantal left a few days after, leaving a feeling of total emptiness in our bungalow. Mauro left the same day as Chantal, to go to Gorontalo to renew his visa before returning to Kadidiri. Then Aslam left also, taking a couple of guests on a 6 day boat trip around the Togians. The cottage and the beach fell so quiet all of a sudden. I left last Saturday, with a few tears in my eyes while watching Leha and Vidi blow me kisses from the beach. Pierre and Marie left a day after me, and Jyrki left on Sunday.

I had decided that before leaving the Togians, I wanted to see another of its islands. So, based on Pierre and Marie's suggestion, I headed to Sifa cottage, on the island of Waleakodi. This meant one hour tuk tuk ride from Kadidiri to Wakai, then 3 hour ferry ride from Wakai to Malenge (ride for which I didn't pay. I had called Nadi to let him know I would be on his boat. He wasnt there but still managed to let his crew know that I didn't have to pay and that I was a VIP guest, lol ). And last but not least, a one hour tuk tuk ride from Malenge to Waleakodi at night under starry sky.

Malenge is a magnificently cute little fisherman's village, half on stilts half on grassy hilly land. Beautiful. I wish I had had enough time to spend a few nights there as well, but time was limited due to my visa expiration date...yes, almost already two months in Indonesia!

Sifa and I spent most of the ride sitting on the edge of the tuk tuk 's roof, chatting about her life and about the Togians. The sky was just like at Una Una..., magical feeling to be the only ones riding so low on the water, and under such magical starry sky. (I was so sad when Sifa told me that Ximena had left her cottage that exact same morning).

As we were getting close to the beach shore, because the sea coral had left place to tall sea grass, and thus active plencton life, as the front of the boat was moving forward on the water, while rubbing against the plencton, it created bio luminescent reaction in the water, like I experienced in Fajardo in Puerto Rico, though to a much lesser degree.

I left Kadidiri with a few tears and sadness in me, but the transition to Sifa cottage smoothened it a little thanks to the continuous beauty encountered along the way and Sifa's gigantic smile.

However, yet again, I came to realize what I had realized when I left Federico and Guilia after Derawan to go to Sulawesi; strong nostalgia and a slight desire to be anti social for a while as I would hardly be able to meet such amazing people again...or so I thought.

Each and every time, it gets harder, yet I manage now to replace these feelings of nostalgia by pure joyful memories.

I arrived at the cottage right on time for dinner. The only other guests there were a German couple, and a Finish couple. Not really worth any comment. Zero interest, though I still can't believe that the German girl suggested that a solution to the littering in the country would be for the tourists to boycott the whole country until they stopped literring, while the Finish girl suggested that the best solution would be to stop the corruption in the government. Ha! You would think that people coming from such western countries would be a bit more educated and knowledgeable about what's going on in the world and how things work. Oh well...they both left the next morning...thank God!

I forgot to mention that upon arriving at Sifa's I was told, to my great joy and surprise that Aslam was docked on their beach for the night as he Sifa's was part of the island hop trip he was making with the couple of tourist. Gosh, I was soooopp happy to see him there and spent the evening playing dominos and chatting about a few gossips on kadidiri. Seeing him there, given my nostalgia of kadidiri was like seeing a close family member...it felt great and made the evening and arrival on Waleakodi much easier and a tad less nostalgic.

I stayed at Sifa cottage a total of 4 nights and 4 days. Though at first my impressions were not at all meeting up to Pierre and Marie's, it is unfortunately only yesterday that the dynamics started to totally change at the cottage and that Sifa started to open up quite a lot. A few more days there would definitely have been fantastic, especially given a few daily trips to the nearby bajo village where I got beat at ping-pong (17-21) during my first visit there...the ball was oval and the table was a varnished door...but still, I lost. Aggrrrrr...

I could keep on and on for hours trying to describe how amazing of a time i have had in the Togians, but none of it would get even close to the full reality of the amazingness of these past three weeks. Had I not already booked a ticket back to France and then Toronto, I would have gone back to Kadidiri for another month.

The upside though is that I will get to see my family and Lola in France, as well as Sebastian & Alma, Carlos, Sebas & Kristen, and the rest of the crazy Toronto gang!

So off I go...with a light heart yet filled with joy and marvelous memories...en route to Gorontalo, where I will hopefully hang out with Aslam (his wife lives there and he will be there for two weeks due to his father in law's funeral). Then, off to Sumatra where I hope to meet up with Chantal and Ximena. Yes, I decided to do Sumatra next, as I don't have that much time before august. I will do Flores, Lombok, Komodo, Sumbawa, Bali, and Java when I return in September/October, before heading up to Nepal.

Farewell Togians...
The boat is big and all made of metal. It is so hot here, not a breeze of air around, yet the memories of Togians, and the thoughts of the adventures to come, keep me fresh and cool...